saw blades - circular - what to buy?

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charlese
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Post by charlese »

Ed in Tampa wrote:...
I think the biggest concern is the Radial Arm if you use a positive hook angle blade the blade tends to climb. If you ever had a Radial arm saw climb on you it is scarey. The blade sort of jumps atop the wood instead of cutting through it come rushing towards you. ...
Haven't had a problem with climb since I went to a negative hook angle blade. While RAS climbing is scarey it is far less scarey and dangerous than a table saw kickback.

Yep! that'll work! However the climbing issue is why - [when I had a RAS as my only power saw (about 30 years)] - I made it a practice to push the saw through the wood rather than pull the saw toward me. Fence adjustments? All the time!

Never did get smart enough to look for of get a negative hook blade:o .
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Methinks the main culprit in the ras 'climbing' is NOT due to blade hook, or push rather than pull, but rather in the lack of a rigidity between the 'table' and the arm.

Negative hook would decrease the tendency to climb.

I shudder to think of pushing rather than pulling as the blade is trying to lift the workpiece.

Not having actually experienced the climb, my 'opinion' may be suspect. However considering my past aggressive cutting on large workpieces(2x10...) I think if it was going to happen, it would have!
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

charlese wrote:Yep! that'll work! However the climbing issue is why - [when I had a RAS as my only power saw (about 30 years)] - I made it a practice to push the saw through the wood rather than pull the saw toward me. Fence adjustments? All the time!

Never did get smart enough to look for of get a negative hook blade:o .
Pushing a RAS into the wood is asking for trouble. The blade will lift the wood and pitch it back over the fence.
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

JPG40504 wrote:Methinks the main culprit in the ras 'climbing' is NOT due to blade hook, or push rather than pull, but rather in the lack of a rigidity between the 'table' and the arm.

Negative hook would decrease the tendency to climb.

I shudder to think of pushing rather than pulling as the blade is trying to lift the workpiece.

Not having actually experienced the climb, my 'opinion' may be suspect. However considering my past aggressive cutting on large workpieces(2x10...) I think if it was going to happen, it would have!
If you haven't experienced the climb on RAS then you are fortunate.
The last Sears RAS I saw had a cable brake to prevent the saw from walking forward. Not sure how effective it was.

For me negative hook angle took care of the problem but how many people using a RAS looks for a negative hook angle blade most go to Sears and buy whatever is hanging on the hook. Usually those blades have a 15 to 20 degree hook.
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paulrussell
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Post by paulrussell »

Ed in Tampa wrote:If you haven't experienced the climb on RAS then you are fortunate.
The last Sears RAS I saw had a cable brake to prevent the saw from walking forward. Not sure how effective it was.

For me negative hook angle took care of the problem but how many people using a RAS looks for a negative hook angle blade most go to Sears and buy whatever is hanging on the hook. Usually those blades have a 15 to 20 degree hook.
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charlese
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Post by charlese »

Ed in Tampa wrote:Pushing a RAS into the wood is asking for trouble. The blade will lift the wood and pitch it back over the fence.

I can understand the concern, but never had that problem.

Climbing is not an exact adjective to describe what happened to me during pull strokes. Actually it was more of a push of the motor/saw toward my arm. Sometimes a motor stall!

Guess it was easier for me to hold the wood down than to deal with the saw that wanted to push toward my hand. In fact, I think I remember the manual said it was a standard method to push the saw toward the fence (away from the user). This is the same sawing action you have when ripping with the RAS. Although there was an anti kick back arm, I always used a hold-down attached to the fence in front of the saw, when ripping.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Ed in Tampa wrote:If you haven't experienced the climb on RAS then you are fortunate.
. . . .
Perhaps I have not experienced it since the only blade that has ever been on it is the one that came with it, and it has never been sharpened(nor used much lately)!
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

I'm itching for a RAS. One of these days... I've been scouring Craig's List and there are plenty there, but for more than I want to pay and further than I want to drive to get it.
Heath
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-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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