Sketchup Project questions

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dlbristol
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Post by dlbristol »

wa2crk wrote:Hey why such a big deal?
About ten years ago my orthopaedic surgeon suggested a method for stretching to remove heal spurs by standing in a doorway and putting your hands on the door jamb and while keeping your feet flat on the floor, lean as far forward as you can to stretch the tendon. Another is to stand on a step and with your toes on the step lower your heels as far as you can and hold for as long as you can. This is not an instant cure and it will take about thirty days but it does work cause I have not had heal pain in a very long time.
Bill
Because he CAN!!! besides, with the door you cannot use all the cool tools It is why I hunt elk. It is 10 times as much work and often more expensive than buying beef, but I can do it and it is WAY MORE FUN!:D
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Dave
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Post by osx-addict »

You guys crack me up! :D

I am aware of (and have been using) the door method (or wall method) to stretch my heel out. However, my primary job that I get paid for is to sit behind a desk all day writing software and that really annoys me heel to no end. I'm planning on putting one under my desk to help keep my heel happy while at work.. Interestingly enough, I've got interest from 2 other people and will probably see about building around 5 of them in total for the first go around after my initial prototype is built. I will say that it is REALLY slick that I can build something in Sketchup that normally requires doing math to find angles (e.g. lowest hole is 20 degrees, followed by 30 and 45) but in this case is actually fun to do without thinking much..

I'll upload my final version of the project this evening if I remember which is a little more refined and eliminates the 40 degree setting.. Feel free to use it (or not) however you see fit..

It really does crack me up how much $$ is wanted for what probably costs about $5-$10 in materials to make (in quantity)..
Rick
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

osx-addict wrote: . . .
It really does crack me up how much $$ is wanted for what probably costs about $5-$10 in materials to make (in quantity)..


Yep!

Labor,
Equipment,
building,
accounting,
legal,
. . .

It does all add up to significantly more than just material costs.;)
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osx-addict
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Post by osx-addict »

Good point.. :D
Rick
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To route or not to route?

Post by osx-addict »

that is the question.. For my footboard project, I've got this piece to make that will be the most challenging (and it isn't really that much of a challenge) :

[ATTACH]9175[/ATTACH]

The hardest part will be the holes in the board.. I could drill some pilot holes near the edge of each hole area and use a hand-held jigsaw to go around the perimeter. I'd like these to look nice and I may not get a nice straight edge if I use the jigsaw.. So, a router came to mind. I could make a jig to run the router in an elongated circle (the diagram shows square corners but they could easily be rounded -- no biggie) which would have the benefit of a nice straight edge but will require more work up-front for the jig.. If I'm going to be making 5 or more of these then a jig seems to make a bit more sense.

Comments?

P.S. If I want to make a jig for doing ovals or circles with a router, whats the best approach? Is it using something like MDF (or ply?) and just cutting out a large hole that will allow the router to run around the smaller hole without going out of bounds?
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Rick
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1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)
charlese
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Post by charlese »

My favorite would be the OPR with stops clamped on the fence. Not having that accessory....

- My next favorite would be a pattern piece made from MDF with over-sized slots, then use a guide bushing on the router. The pattern can be stuck onto the workpiece with double sided carpet tape.

- My next method would be to use a router table with stops on the fence. This would require 4 movements of the fence with your present dimensions.

IMO rounded tenons would look cool on the foot boards.
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Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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Post by osx-addict »

Hmm.. I might have to visit the local Rockler store and pickup a guide bushing for my DW610 router.. It might take a bit of trial & error to get the size right but sounds like the way to go!
Rick
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1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)
charlese
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Post by charlese »

Get a set of guide bushings that come with a centering cone. I don't know off hand how much the difference (width) is between the outside of a bushing and the bit inside, but ask at Rockler they'll know the bits and the sizes of bushings. If they don't know - Ed (reible) does.

Good news!--The bushings are made for your router plate. There's usually no measuring needed, for most operations, If I remember right it's usually a standard difference like 1/8". It is most important to center the bit!
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reible
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Post by reible »

Hi,

Making a template and using guide bushings would be my way of do this. I'd make one template then use that to make another template with all the cut outs. Add a way to make sure it is positioned the same way on the work piece and a way to clamp it on (could be double sided tape even). And you will be making them in no time at all.

I posted a table with guide bushings and bit sizes but I'll have to look it up. It also has a tutorial on some of this jig building and template bushings. I'll try to find it yet tonight.

Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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reible
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Post by reible »

OK I located the thread. It might be an interesting read if you have the time and have not read it yet. It was a mystery project I did a just over a year ago.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3681

If you understand the concepts and just want the facts go here:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... stcount=48

Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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