A couple of newb. questions
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A couple of newb. questions
I have finally nearly finished my 510 upgrades via ebay. I just received my upper saw guard and I can't for the life of me figure out how it attaches to the table. Help?
Secondly, I just purchased the dado arbor and table insert. My question is how does the arbor stay together under load, since it is not reverse threaded?
Thanks!
Jeff
Secondly, I just purchased the dado arbor and table insert. My question is how does the arbor stay together under load, since it is not reverse threaded?
Thanks!
Jeff
- dusty
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I hope a couple pictures answer your question. The two that follow show my saw guard installed (with the headstock moved away from the main table for clarity). One shows the upper saw guard and the other shows a home made riving knife installed rather than the saw guard.jheflin wrote:I have finally nearly finished my 510 upgrades via ebay. I just received my upper saw guard and I can't for the life of me figure out how it attaches to the table. Help?
Secondly, I just purchased the dado arbor and table insert. My question is how does the arbor stay together under load, since it is not reverse threaded?
Thanks!
Jeff
Hope these help!
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"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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- JPG
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
The force of the blade against the arbor will tend to tighten the nut, not loosen it.jheflin wrote:I have finally nearly finished my 510 upgrades via ebay. I just received my upper saw guard and I can't for the life of me figure out how it attaches to the table. Help? It attaches to the lower saw guard, not the table.
Secondly, I just purchased the dado arbor and table insert. My question is how does the arbor stay together under load, since it is not reverse threaded? The reverse thread(left hand thread) is only necessary when the nut is on the headstock side of the blade.
Thanks!
Jeff
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
One other point on the dado arbor (assuming you bought a new or complete one) is that it has a keyway cut in it to accept a keyed (or tongue) washer. With this anti-rotation washer in place under the nut you can use the arbor on the other side of the headstock (or on the quill in reverse with the Power Pro). Boy I hope you folks did not throw away those keyed washers.JPG40504 wrote:The force of the blade against the arbor will tend to tighten the nut, not loosen it.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Thanks for the pics Dusty! I guess it couldn't have been more obvious:)
JPG, I will take your word for it, it just seems counter intuitive to me, since the nut tightens in the opposite direction from the blade rotation. It must work since none of you are being killed by flying dado blades.
Thanks for the quick responses! I will be posting pics of my greenine restoration soon, I hope, now that the 510 is mostly done.
JPG, I will take your word for it, it just seems counter intuitive to me, since the nut tightens in the opposite direction from the blade rotation. It must work since none of you are being killed by flying dado blades.
Thanks for the quick responses! I will be posting pics of my greenine restoration soon, I hope, now that the 510 is mostly done.
- dusty
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This is not a very good picture but I think it shows the adjustment screw well enough to locate it on your machine.timster68 wrote:I have a "new" upper guard of sorts, but I need to realign the riving knife behind the blade. Where is the mechanism to do that?
The screw is on the lower saw guard and is shown here with the quill extended.
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sorry about the fuzzy picture
The adjustment is something of a hit and miss. I run the screw in until it is flush and then check the riving knife alignment. Then back it out as required until the blade and the riving knife are in the same plane.
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"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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- dusty
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A couple of slightly better pictures.timster68 wrote:OH ok, I think I see it. I'll give it a whirl tonight. Thanks!
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"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.