Repeating table height setting

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 7:04 pm

I was playing with my new dado set today (very happy so far) and wanted to make a series of cuts with different widths, but all the same depth. I needed to move the table between some of the cuts so tried to figure out a way to repeatedly get the table back to the same height adjustment quickly and easily. This is quite easy on the 10ER with the way the table riser crank works, but I wasn't sure how to do it on the Mark 5.

After scratching my head and thinking about it for a bit, I had an idea. I removed the table from the carriage, took one of the collars off the tailstock and put it on the front table support tube and put the table back on. Then I set my depth and locked the collar down against the carriage as a stop (being careful to avoid tightening the set screw against the threads). Now, I can raise and even remove the table and put it back and repeat my height adjustment. If I need to lower the table but still want to return to that height, I could put the other collar under the carriage as a stop.

Seems to work pretty well, but I was wondering how others handle the issue of repeating the table height setting. So how do you do it?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 7:17 pm

heathicus wrote:I was playing with my new dado set today (very happy so far) and wanted to make a series of cuts with different widths, but all the same depth. I needed to move the table between some of the cuts so tried to figure out a way to repeatedly get the table back to the same height adjustment quickly and easily. This is quite easy on the 10ER with the way the table riser crank works, but I wasn't sure how to do it on the Mark 5.

After scratching my head and thinking about it for a bit, I had an idea. I removed the table from the carriage, took one of the collars off the tailstock and put it on the front table support tube and put the table back on. Then I set my depth and locked the collar down against the carriage as a stop (being careful to avoid tightening the set screw against the threads). Now, I can raise and even remove the table and put it back and repeat my height adjustment. If I need to lower the table but still want to return to that height, I could put the other collar under the carriage as a stop.

Seems to work pretty well, but I was wondering how others handle the issue of repeating the table height setting. So how do you do it?

Been known to 'store' one there just in case I need it. Secure it at the top.
If ya have a lot of movement necessary, put a collar on both table riser tubes. This must be done gently so as to not move the collars when lowering the table on to them.

Good thinking. I would/have do/done it similarly! The adjustable stop collar is another way.

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 7:38 pm

heathicus wrote:I was playing with my new dado set today (very happy so far) and wanted to make a series of cuts with different widths, but all the same depth. I needed to move the table between some of the cuts so tried to figure out a way to repeatedly get the table back to the same height adjustment quickly and easily. This is quite easy on the 10ER with the way the table riser crank works, but I wasn't sure how to do it on the Mark 5.

After scratching my head and thinking about it for a bit, I had an idea. I removed the table from the carriage, took one of the collars off the tailstock and put it on the front table support tube and put the table back on. Then I set my depth and locked the collar down against the carriage as a stop (being careful to avoid tightening the set screw against the threads). Now, I can raise and even remove the table and put it back and repeat my height adjustment. If I need to lower the table but still want to return to that height, I could put the other collar under the carriage as a stop.

Seems to work pretty well, but I was wondering how others handle the issue of repeating the table height setting. So how do you do it?

I wood say that your "discovery" is knot uncommon, and like Red said, another method is to use an adjustable stop collar. Using a depth guagecan be helpfull too. I have gotten away from using my dado set much, preferring the router instead. A router depth guagecan come in handy.

8iowa · Post by **8iowa** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 7:40 pm

Most of the time I use the adjustable stop collar 555937) when set-up with the dado. This makes it possible for me to adjust the depth with a high degree of accuracy. You have done just about the same thing, only with a "non adjustable" stop collar.

The adjustable stop collar is a handy little accessory to have around.

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 8:51 pm

I hadn't seen the adjustable stop collar. How does it work? It's hard to tell from the picture/description, but I'm guessing it attaches to the tube with the set screw, but then has a threaded portion that allows for a more precise adjustment?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 9:09 pm

heathicus wrote:I hadn't seen the adjustable stop collar. How does it work? It's hard to tell from the picture/description, but I'm guessing it attaches to the tube with the set screw, but then has a threaded portion that allows for a more precise adjustment?

Consider it a fine threaded screw jack.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 9:32 pm

heathicus wrote:I hadn't seen the adjustable stop collar. How does it work? It's hard to tell from the picture/description, but I'm guessing it attaches to the tube with the set screw, but then has a threaded portion that allows for a more precise adjustment?

You got it. That is exactly how it works.

I keep one on the Main Table and one on the right hand extension table.

If I sense that I might not be needing for awhile, I slide it as high as it will go and secure it there. This allows for unobstructed adjust ability of the table.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 9:39 pm

Such things are exactly why I wanted multiple Shopsmiths so I can leave set-ups intact. I can make a half dozen different set-ups and still keep doing different stuff and my original settings are all still as I made them to start with.
Yes I am basically lazy...

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 9:46 pm

This video shows the stop collar in action. It shows it in use with a paper vernier scale for precision adjustments. The stop collar has a thread pitch of 16 TPI so each complete revolution is exactly .0625" (1/16th inch). The paper gage is used to divide up a revolution incrementally. You can find the paper gage here.

Good use of the gray matter coming up with the collar method. Now, drill and tap a 4-40 hole in it, insert a 4-40 pan head screw, and you can make your own precision height adjuster. A 40 TPI hole helix revolution is exactly .025" which is fine enough for woodworking. Quarter turn = ~.006"

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Sat Jun 26, 2010 9:57 pm

Heath, why didn't you just use a 10ER? Or two?

Paul M