TV Stand Design Help

[drl]

Here is a site for "calculating shelf sag". I have not used it but had it marked as a reference. BTW I like your design.

http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm

Regards,
Dwight

[Splinters N Chips]

Instead of MDF or angle iron or combination of all, how about a piece of box tubing from floor to top of say 1" x 3" or 4". That would eliminate the saging problem, provide a hollow space for the wires and a solid fondation for the TV. Of course paint the tube to match the shelves. Just a thought. Lee

[heathicus]

Thanks for the continued assistance and ideas! Keep them coming.

I had come up with another design objective that I eventually scratched. I thought it would look better if the face of the TV was even with the front edge of the shelves. But as I played around with that in Sketchup, it just started getting too complicated. It either required massive support for the TV, or was becoming a cabinet. Additionally, I think it was too much weight toward the front and I was afraid it might be too easily pulled over onto someone (especially with MY kids!)

So here's what I have so far. Only slight revisions to the above. A double pedestal as per JPG's suggestion. Some trim on the front of the shelves to reduce sagging as per shipwreck - er, I mean shipwright.

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The angle iron to prevent shelf sag was a good idea and I'll give that some thought. I wonder if I could cover it with wood trim? Or what about aluminum angle? If I polish it, that might be an attractive accent in addition to serving a valuable function.

And since angle iron/aluminum was brought up, could that be used inside the pedestals for added strength? Maybe a piece of 2" or 3" angle iron or aluminum in the front outside corner of each 3/4" MDF or plywood pedestal running from floor to top? Then the bolts for the cleats going through the cleat, MDF/ply, and angle?

I'll investigate the box tubing idea further. Right now I'm just not "seeing" it in my head.

Is this going to end up being more expensive than the Wal*Mart unit?

[heathicus]

I recalled that we had some spare parts from a video conference system we installed at work a couple years ago. That system uses big 52" plasma monitors. The installer told me I could have them and do whatever I wanted to do with them. I shoved them into a closet and haven't touched them since, so I went to see what was there.

I found 3 steel box tubes (I guess that's what they are?). They are 1"x3"x5', have a wall thickness of 1/8". To get an idea for their strength, I laid one down with one end propped up a few inches off the floor and carefully stood on it. Standing on the wide (3") part, there was some noticeable flexing, but it held my weight (and I'm a lot heavier than that TV). Standing on the narrow (1") part, there was no flexing that I could feel or see from my view.

So my new idea is to go back to one pedestal (my preference), but make it about 1' wide. Inside the pedestal, attach one of these box tubes to each front corner and one centered between them. Then attach two cleats (each 6" wider than the pedestal - or even more than that if required by the mounting hole locations on the TV itself), instead of just one, to keep the TV from rotating with each cleat tall enough to have two bolts through the cleat, outer wall of the pedestal, and box tube at each box tube location. Actually, I'm not even sure that the box tube in the center is necessary. Seems to me that this would be plenty strong. Thoughts?

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[heathicus]

The shelves need to be 50" wide and 18" deep. There's going to be some sagging problem regardless of whether I use MDF or plywood. I liked the angle iron (or aluminum?) suggestion, but I would still like to cover it with a hardwood strip.

The current version of my plans is for a strip of angle in the front and back of the shelf. In the back, the angle can be bolted to the box tube upright supports in the pedestal and the shelf attached to the angle. That should hold the shelf and help reduce sagging.

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I'm still just not sure how to attach the front legs. I still want them one piece and outside of the shelves. Perhaps dados on the leg with a dowel for additional support?

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[iclark]

I like your torsion box design using the steel studs. if you paint the inside black, then it helps with the cable management. assuming that the back on the column will be toward a wall or corner, then you can put 2 columns of holes down the back (between the studs) that you can reach through to run cables. 2 holes in the front (one in each cavity) between the cleats and similar 2 holes above the bottom and the middle shelf should allow for very discrete cable management.

the 2 French cleats are definitely better than one, but what stops the TV from coming off the cleats when the room is being re-arranged? if the TV bounces off the top cleat, it will fall. putting 2 metal straps connecting the backs of the 2 halves of the upper cleat would be a good safety idea.

the back of the TV may also not be designed with enough strength for 2 independent French cleats. you may need to put a metal plate on the back of the TV to mount the cleats to.

how are you planning on adjusting the tilt of the TV? the higher off the floor the TV and the closer to the floor your chairs creates the need for more tilt for the TV. in other words, if the top cleat is 5' off the floor and you are watching from bar stools, then no tilt needed. if it is 6' off the floor and you are watching from bean bag chairs 10' away, then you probably want 15-20* tilt.

in terms of the front legs, just in terms of my experience, I would not rotate the front of those legs into the front edge. I always seem to find that new equipment is wider than old and I want that extra inch or 2 of width across the front. also, I hate it when the side of my current system blocks the IR beam of the remote from reaching the control sensor in the cable box. for me, I would put those legs on the side near the front and make them trapezoidal in cross-section with the smaller face inward. of course, SWMBO thinks that I have a weird sense of aesthetics;)

[JPG]

. . . Actually, I'm not even sure that the box tube in the center is necessary. Seems to me that this would be plenty strong. Thoughts?

. . .

The 'center' is probably over kill and complicates the cabling access to the shelves! The space between them would be larger without the 'center'.

The 'center' could be cut and used in the front legs(?).

As for the tilt, consider using a tiltable tv/wall mount. The wall mount could be attached to the french cleat(s). I agree you need to include a 'french cleat jumper outer preventer'.

[heathicus]

I like your torsion box design using the steel studs. if you paint the inside black, then it helps with the cable management.

Using the pedestal for cable management with convenient (yet discreet) access holes was my thoughts exactly. I also plan on putting the power strip inside the pedestal.

the 2 French cleats are definitely better than one, but what stops the TV from coming off the cleats when the room is being re-arranged?

Although, I would imagine that if we moved the stand around, we would take the TV off first, I think a "french cleat jumper outer preventer" is a great idea and one that I will incorporate.

the back of the TV may also not be designed with enough strength for 2 independent French cleats. you may need to put a metal plate on the back of the TV to mount the cleats to.

Hmmm.... good point. I haven't even investigated that yet. I had just tentatively planned on mounting the cleats to the TV using the same mounting points a TV wall mount would use. But if I need a plate of some kind is needed between the TV and the cleats, that wouldn't be hard to make.

how are you planning on adjusting the tilt of the TV?

As for the tilt, consider using a tiltable tv/wall mount.

I had thought about the tilt, but judging by our current configuration, I think no tilt will be OK. Right now it is sitting on a small table using the TV's factory table stand that gives it no tilt. I figure with the stand I'm planning, it will only be a couple inches higher than it is now. Currently we are quite satisfied with its placement height and tilt - the table just isn't working out for us now. If any tilt becomes necessary, I'll figure something out.

But I am specifically trying to avoid those TV wall mounts to help keep the cost down. Those things aren't cheap. (EDIT: The last time I shopped for TV wall mounts, I couldn't find anything under $150. I just did some looking around and found several options for under $50 - with free shipping. Maybe I will reconsider the TV wall mount option.)

in terms of the front legs, just in terms of my experience, I would not rotate the front of those legs into the front edge.

You bring up some good reasons for that, but... I just really like the legs on the corners and at an angle to the shelves. In Sketchup, I had put one leg on the side like you suggested for visual comparison to the other leg. The joinery that way would be easier, but it just doesn't please me as much visually.

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The rest of the stand is rather plain and boring, so I want to do something a bit more interesting and elegant (while remaining subtle) with the legs.

[terrydowning]

But I am specifically trying to avoid those TV wall mounts to help keep the cost down. Those things aren't cheap. (EDIT: The last time I shopped for TV wall mounts, I couldn't find anything under $150. I just did some looking around and found several options for under $50 - with free shipping. Maybe I will reconsider the TV wall mount option.)

try Monoprice http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828

Mine was like $25 fits my 55" TV and installation to the wall was a breeze. It even tilts

They also have great prices on cables as well.

[heathicus]

Wow, those are some great prices! Thanks for the link!!