Tongue & groove flooring

[littlejohnnc]

Im replacing the deck on my front porch. The house was built in 1917. The deck is 1x4 tongue and groove pine. There enough damage that I will be replacing the whole deck. Its 8 foot wide some 30 feet long.
At 10 bucks a board going to run into a lot money. Do yall think it be better to buy the tongue& groove equipment for the Shop Smith an mill up my own boards or just buy the tongue & groove boards.
One problem is the measurement between the floor joist and the bottom of the door threshold is 1 inch.
.......................John

[a1gutterman]

Im replacing the deck on my front porch. The house was built in 1917. The deck is 1x4 tongue and groove pine. There enough damage that I will be replacing the whole deck. Its 8 foot wide some 30 feet long.
At 10 bucks a board going to run into a lot money. Do yall think it be better to buy the tongue& groove equipment for the Shop Smith an mill up my own boards or just buy the tongue & groove boards.
One problem is the measurement between the floor joist and the bottom of the door threshold is 1 inch.
.......................John

Hi John,

I do knot think there is a cut and dry answer for you. If you have a lot of time on your hands and this sounds like a fun project for you, I wood recommend creating your own T&G boards; on the other hand, if your time is limited, buy the boards already made. One question if you please: If your T&G boards are only 1" thick (or 3/4") how far apart are the joists???

[charlese]

Im replacing the deck on my front porch. The house was built in 1917. The deck is 1x4 tongue and groove pine. There enough damage that I will be replacing the whole deck. Its 8 foot wide some 30 feet long.
At 10 bucks a board going to run into a lot money. Do yall think it be better to buy the tongue& groove equipment for the Shop Smith an mill up my own boards or just buy the tongue & groove boards.
One problem is the measurement between the floor joist and the bottom of the door threshold is 1 inch.
.......................John

Like Tim, the decision to make boards is all yours. If you decide to make your flooring, short lengths should work nicely. Shopsmith has some shaper cutters that will help make the joints.

As for the 1" space from the joists to the door - this is no problem! A new sub floor plus the flooring will probably amount to close to 1 1/2". (probably a little less). This means you only have to trim the door about 1/2"

[littlejohnnc]

Thanks for the replies !!! The floor joist are 4x8 rough cut on 16 inch centers.
Outside frame work are 4x12 rough cut. Massive timbers under this house ,all yellow pine. I got the time might as well mill the boards myself. I guess I need to check prices on 1x6 lumber then compare 1x6 tongue and groove price. Chuck there is no sub floor T&G just nail to the timbers.
I got the molder head kit router table . I'll have to see what knives I got in the shop.
On another subject how long is it taking to get parts out? I need another miter gauge............Thanks again John

[stephen_a._draper]

Use the moulder instead of the shaper if you have a choice. You will get smoother cuts with more power and torque because of the larger radius of cut.

[JPG]

Use the moulder instead of the shaper if you have a choice. You will get smoother cuts with more power and torque because of the larger radius of cut.

The molder will require more power/torque from the headstock.(at a reduced rpm).

[papahammer8]

it's all fine to mill ur own but remember to use pressure treated lumber. also pt lumber mills different the moisture content .also remember by the time u aquire nessisary equipment to mill. are u exceeding ur 10 dollers a board price . for a one time job. i don't see the savings in milling ur own. ur time is also costly hagd papahammer