OK, I know it's somewhere in the archives. I can't imagine any question that hasn't been asked, and answered, before. But since I've spent time in search mode without really feeling more educated at the end of the experience, I'm gonna just through this out to the group.
Comparison of benefits, uses, disadvantages, etc. for a 3-jaw chuck versus a 4-jaw chuck?
Independent jaws versus synchronized jaws versus self-centering?
What features do you find most useful in a chuck?
Chuck evaluation
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Chuck evaluation
'55 Greenie #292284 (Mar-55), '89 SS 510 #020989, Mark VII #408551 (sold 10/14/12), SS Band Saw, (SS 500 #36063 (May-79) now gone to son-in-law as of 11-11), Magna bandsaw, Magna jointer 16185 (May-54), Magna belt sander SS28712 (Dec-82), Magna jigsaw SS4397 (Dec-78), SS biscuit joiner, Zyliss (knockoff) vise, 20+ hand planes, 60s Craftsman tablesaw, CarbaTec mini-lathe, and the usual pile of tools. Hermit of the Hills Woodworks, a hillbilly in the foothills of the Ozarks, scraping by.
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JPG
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fiatben wrote:OK, I know it's somewhere in the archives. I can't imagine any question that hasn't been asked, and answered, before. But since I've spent time in search mode without really feeling more educated at the end of the experience, I'm gonna just through this out to the group.
Comparison of benefits, uses, disadvantages, etc. for a 3-jaw chuck versus a 4-jaw chuck?
Independent jaws versus synchronized jaws versus self-centering?
What features do you find most useful in a chuck?
Most 3 jaw chucks are 'synchronized'.
4 jaw chucks were created to allow intentional 'off centering' possible with 4 independant jaws'. Yes they also can be 'non-independant'.
It is the intended use that defines which is 'more applicable'.
A 4 jaw will hold items more securely due to the increased 'holding surface area'.
A 4 jaw will do anything a 3 jaw will(but centering can be a booger at times if independant jaws).
i.e. Know your intentions and make your own judgment accordingly.
(after further recommendations I am sure will follow!)╔═══╗
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Are you talking about a lathe chuck? If so, I'd stay away from ones with tommy bars. Get one that ya can change jaws on, if the need ever arises. Stick with quality name brand ones, just make sure ya can get the 5/8's plain adapter for it.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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RobertTaylor
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lathe chucks
for woodworking you really want a 4-jaw scroll chuck, not an independent 4-jaw chuck. a chuck with tommy bars versus a chuck key is just as easy to operate. three jaw chucks are not suitable for woodworking.
Bob
1954 greenie, 1963 anniversary edition now a mini,
1984 500, 1985 510, 1987 510, pro-planer, bandsaw, dust collector
1954 greenie, 1963 anniversary edition now a mini,
1984 500, 1985 510, 1987 510, pro-planer, bandsaw, dust collector
A couple of other points:
A three-jaw scroll chuck isn't all that beneficial for woodworking because it won't hold turning squares, but if you have round material to turn it will work fine. A four jaw is better suited.
The four-jaw scroll chucks, like the Nova and Oneway, will hold turning squares just fine and will also hold round stock. In addition, you can turn a dovetail recess for holding your work or you can also turn a spigot on the end of you work to hold it in the chuck. Most come equipped with a screw center and you can buy accessory jaws for different holding requirements. These really are the most versatile for woodworking.
A four-jaw independent chuck can be cumbersome to set up, but it will allow you to turn off center work. So if you wanted to turn something like a wooden crankshaft, this is what you'd want.
A three-jaw scroll chuck isn't all that beneficial for woodworking because it won't hold turning squares, but if you have round material to turn it will work fine. A four jaw is better suited.
The four-jaw scroll chucks, like the Nova and Oneway, will hold turning squares just fine and will also hold round stock. In addition, you can turn a dovetail recess for holding your work or you can also turn a spigot on the end of you work to hold it in the chuck. Most come equipped with a screw center and you can buy accessory jaws for different holding requirements. These really are the most versatile for woodworking.
A four-jaw independent chuck can be cumbersome to set up, but it will allow you to turn off center work. So if you wanted to turn something like a wooden crankshaft, this is what you'd want.
Art in Western Pennsylvania