Stand alone router table

eldyfig · Post by **eldyfig** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 1:24 pm

Hello to all. I am new to the forum, but been around the Shopsmith site for a few years. I acquired a great deal of Shopsmith equipment from my father a few years back. Just when I got the majority of everything set up in my garage, we decided to move. At my new place, my 20x20 shop building is, for the most part, complete. I am putting the final touches on setting up the equipment.

I have a stand alone shopsmith router table. The thing is bugging me. The legs are put together the way it is in the manual. All screws and nuts are tight. However, it still shifts left and right if you put any force against it. It seems like it is missing some sort of cross support. The other bug is the fence that came with this thing. Anyone have any suggestions on making it easier to use, adjust?

Tony

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 1:55 pm

Hi Tony (eldyfig)! First of all welcome to the Forum!

Next, congratulations on your new shop building. It know it is a good feeling to get into a new shop! I've been into mine for over 3 years and it's getting a little better every day.

I'm sorry, but I don't know how the stand alone router table is set up, but I'll take a guess that it has tapered 90 degree metal legs, like the other SS stand alones. If this is the case, it should stand pretty stable. But, since it doesn't - here's a suggestion:
Manufacture a wood brace to extend from the front left leg bottom to the right front leg top. Also make another brace to extend from the right rear leg bottom to the left rear leg top. This will give a stabilization from rocking sideways. Do a similar thing to the side legs. This should make it rock solid.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 3:01 pm

I didn't know that Shopsmith ever marketed a standalone router table unless you are referring to a pin router.

But, no matter. A router table that wobbles is not good. Charlese had a suggestion that would certainly stabilize the legs.

I have a small shop and I am always looking for ways to more effectively utilize floor space. I haven't done so well but I'm always looking. To that end I would suggest a shelf cut to fit the span of the legs about a foot off the floor. You could bevel the edges to match the angle of the legs and just screw the legs to the shelf.

Another approach would be to manufacture a set of braces like those that are used on the Power Station or the Shopsmith Pro Planer. They are just metal angle iron cut and drilled to form a collar around the four legs (attached inside the legs). I found that Rubbermaid has some plastic storage containers that fit in that collar perfectly.

You could pick your storage containers first and then install the angle iron to fit. I just got down right lucky; the containers that I had just happened to fit.

Or you could build a drawer for router accessories that, when installed, would do the same as a shelf.

eldyfig · Post by **eldyfig** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 3:16 pm

Thank you for the reply. I will try to shore it up. I also thought a shelf on the bottom supports could come in handy also. The legs are like you say, tapered 90 degree. I need to double check how the table top attaches to the legs. Maybe the legs are not secure to the table top itself. I am at work now. I'll check when I get home.

As far as the fence goes, I think I would like to find a one piece fence. That would be easier to adjust.

I will take a picture of the table when I get home. Can't find it anywhere on SS site. The one they have that mounts to the SS is smaller than the table top I have. I'll post a pic later.

reible · Post by **reible** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 4:06 pm

Hi,

Glad to have you at the forum!

I have the same router table you do... well it was at one time. I have since converted it for use with my OPR and that is one of the uses in addition to the stand alone standard router table.

I have also added the caster set like on the shopsmith. This requires you cut and move braces and also makes a world of difference for other reasons... like it becomes more stable. I have also made a make small shelf to fit in the bottom for storage. I don't have any newer pictures showing the casters or the reconstruction they required. I do have a few shots of it without the casters at:
www.flickr.com/photos/12199425@N02/sets/72157601718316398/

I would like to build a custom shelf to take up most of the room below for storage. This would add even more strength to the setup. You might also want to think about that as a project.

I will agree with you when I just got the stand it was less then wonderful. You can really tighten up the braces and make sure you have the table attached tight. It helps but when you go to move it, it will still move on you... it did seem OK to route on, it seemed stable then but moving would rack it. I'm also not sure at what point that really seem to go away but it is quite stable now.

The simple solution for now is to get either some straight wood or plywood and make a face piece that you can screw the two metal fence pieces to... making them one. I have a few jigs which are for the OPR but would work for the stand router table as well, at least you can get somemore ideas...
www.flickr.com/photos/12199425@N02/sets/72157601718316668/

Ed

mtobey · Post by **mtobey** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 4:57 pm

My OPR is wiggly too. I was considering firing up my MIG and setting it right for good. Instead, I am making a shelf that will act as a torsion panel and that should take the movement out. I will be putting the new tabletop on, hopefully, Monday evening, and a new 3.25 hp Freud Plunge will reside under the table.mt

eldyfig · Post by **eldyfig** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 5:23 pm

reible wrote: It helps but when you go to move it, it will still move on you... it did seem OK to route on, it seemed stable then but moving would rack it. I'm also not sure at what point that really seem to go away but it is quite stable now.

Exactly.

Thanks for the link to the pictures. That is the table. I don't have the overarm and the table is mounted directly to the gray supports and legs. The green angle iron and the tracks come with the overarm package?

Any recommendations on type of wood that is best for fence? At the moment I have the face pieces from the SS shaper fence on the left and right fences with the utility vacuum extension floor pick up screwed into each one. I haven't moved the fence, so I don't know if that will help it move as one any easier. Plus, it might get in the way of bigger bits. Ahhh, oh well. It was one of those late night tinkering moods I was in. Like you said, I should build a single face plate.

Another question about that...I have the shield with the vacuum attachment on top. Does that thing capture dust good or would a vaccum port through the fence be better?

Can you tell I am still a novice with the router?

Thank you everyone for the welcome.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 7:45 pm

Nick had a dandy idea in one of his Sawdust Sessions for a fence for the Overhead router. With just a little modification this idea will work for any router table. I made a fence somewhat similar to Nicks Overhead Router fence - photos and Nick's fence below.
For Nick's fence go to this link and point to the blackboard numbers 3 & 4. Perhaps with a wider base and a couple of well placed slots that are in the base and perpendicular to the fence, this will work well on most any table.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/shopvid ... uter_3.htm
Here's my fence - The dust collector works wonderfully well!

eldyfig · Post by **eldyfig** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 10:18 pm

I am home now and checked out the fence I have on there now. I have 3/4" faces on the fences. Well, that is 1/4" to big for the shield that attaches to post at the back of the table. The shield will not lower. It hits the top of the fence. I was looking at that video with Nick's fence today. I downloaded a copy of it and was thinking the same as you, Charles.

Can you elaborate on that dust collection box on your fence? That looks like something I would like. Is it just a piece of plywood glued at an angle? I see something black and white in there.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 11:25 pm

eldyfig wrote:"...Can you elaborate on that dust collection box on your fence? That looks like something I would like. Is it just a piece of plywood glued at an angle? I see something black and white in there.

Not much to elaborate on, but here goes - the base has a cutout (you can see through the top of the dust collector hole). I made 45's at the corners of the cutout in the base which helps prevent chips getting caught in square corners. The top is just a piece of ply, mitered on the upper and lower edges to fit - and the sides were trimmed to just fit between the fence braces.

Also you can see the slots and bolts, through the base, for forward and backward movement of the fence. I made two sliding faces for the fence. For the fixing (placement) of the upper portion of the fence, I slid credit cards between the two lower fences, the upper portion and the table. This makes sliding (adjusting for different bits an easy thing. (not real credit cards - the ones I'm always getting in the mail for free. Had to find a use for them somewhere!)

This fence sits on a folding table copied from Norm's "Garage workshop"

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