I am wanting to build a jig to cut miters. With my SS purchase, I ended up with a miter pro slide to do 45 degree cuts flat on the table. But I wanted to build one for the table top without the need to tilt the table itself.
Anyone have pics or plans of any so I may get some ideas?:rolleyes:
Miter jig
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technically, i think the term ends up being bevel once you tilt the table 
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... =bevel+jig
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... =bevel+jig
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup
JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw
-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw
-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
- JPG
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mrhart wrote:I am wanting to build a jig to cut miters. With my SS purchase, I ended up with a miter pro slide to do 45 degree cuts flat on the table. But I wanted to build one for the table top without the need to tilt the table itself.
Anyone have pics or plans of any so I may get some ideas?:rolleyes:
Snack for thought.
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- bevel sled2.jpg (50.58 KiB) Viewed 2521 times
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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I do not mean to challenge your not wanting to tilt the table for this otherwise simple cut BUT I am really curious as to why.mrhart wrote:I am wanting to build a jig to cut miters. With my SS purchase, I ended up with a miter pro slide to do 45 degree cuts flat on the table. But I wanted to build one for the table top without the need to tilt the table itself.
Anyone have pics or plans of any so I may get some ideas?:rolleyes:
Would you please explain why you prefer not to tilt the table.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
That JPG is a good drawer huh?.dusty wrote:I do not mean to challenge your not wanting to tilt the table for this otherwise simple cut BUT I am really curious as to why.
Would you please explain why you prefer not to tilt the table.
Sir I was just looking for an accurate, no set up required jig. I recently saw a "Wooshop" show on tv and they showed a simple miter jig just to set up your miter gage to remove inaccuracy. I'm just looking to make a few items that can be useful in the future.
I'm using a 5/8" blade and arbor on my 520. If I buy a SS blade (11/8") would that jig still work? or should I wait to build until I get new SS blades?
I saw the old thread about sliding the headstock to the right side for cuts which was a great idea.
R Hart
- JPG
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mrhart wrote:That JPG is a good drawer huh?.
Sir I was just looking for an accurate, no set up required jig. I recently saw a "Wooshop" show on tv and they showed a simple miter jig just to set up your miter gage to remove inaccuracy. I'm just looking to make a few items that can be useful in the future.
I'm using a 5/8" blade and arbor on my 520. If I buy a SS blade (11/8") would that jig still work? or should I wait to build until I get new SS blades?
I saw the old thread about sliding the headstock to the right side for cuts which was a great idea.
The size of stuff under the table will not affect stuff on top!;)
That jig does not extend all the way to the table surface(the tilted part).
The in/out position of the blade is easily zeroed in with a shopsmith whereas with a TS, the jig must be dead on to a single blade or the blade 'shimmed':eek:.
BTW I am not the originator of that sketch. Woodshop or some other entity is. I copied it for 'future' reference, so I guess the future has arrived!:D
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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mrhart wrote:That JPG is a good drawer huh?.
Sir I was just looking for an accurate, no set up required jig. I recently saw a "Wooshop" show on tv and they showed a simple miter jig just to set up your miter gage to remove inaccuracy. I'm just looking to make a few items that can be useful in the future.
I'm using a 5/8" blade and arbor on my 520. If I buy a SS blade (11/8") would that jig still work? or should I wait to build until I get new SS blades?
I saw the old thread about sliding the headstock to the right side for cuts which was a great idea.
I am sorry to disappoint you but that jig does not take away the potential for an inaccurate setup when cutting miters if you are using a Shopsmith Mark 5/V. It sets on the (tilting) table and if the table is not set properly the miter cut will not be equal to the angle set by the jig.
To get the table set accurately for this cut, I would suggest that you need a Wixeyangle gauge. I use a Wixey, in conjunction with a threaded rod, to dial in very accurate table settings.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=6156&highlight=tilt Post #12
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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