Saw blade, moulder and arbors...what to get?

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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

One advantage of a molder head over a shaper cutter is that the cutting edge is moving much faster at the same RPM than a shaper cutter cutting edge is moving. On a mower that would be expressed in feet per minute at blade tip with the FPM increasing as the blade length increases.
A molder will work fine on an edge as long as the board is properly and securely guided. I would likely use two fences (both with a sacrificial face) and have them snugly against the board with the board sandwiched between them. If there is any variation in the thickness of the boards I would only move one fence to increase or decrease space between the fences then one face would all be even and any variation would all fall in the opposite face.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I think it is fairly accurate to describe a shaper as an 'edging' tool.

However the molder is also an 'edging' tool(glue joints, drop leaf, door lip...)

The advantage of a molder is the ability to face cut and angle of cut(shallower 'ripples') and edge speed(as Farmer mentioned).

That comes at the price of more risky if not used properly.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
jm51
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Post by jm51 »

That comes at the price of more risky if not used properly

It can be used safely I hope as I've just bought one. :D

Stay out of missile path, use push stick/block and have 2 fences to prevent sideways movement. Anything else?

I'm toying with the idea of having some 20mm and 30mm saw blade arbors made. The design seems simple enough apart from there being a mix of metric and Imperial measurements.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

jm51 wrote:That comes at the price of more risky if not used properly

It can be used safely I hope as I've just bought one. :D

Stay out of missile path, use push stick/block and have 2 fences to prevent sideways movement. Anything else?

I'm toying with the idea of having some 20mm and 30mm saw blade arbors made. The design seems simple enough apart from there being a mix of metric and Imperial measurements.
Non aggressive cut depth and feed rate. Workpiece held securely. Stay out of the 'red zone'!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

Press???? You would be surprised what you can accomplish with some 2x4's and a hydraulic bottle jack.
[ATTACH]12859[/ATTACH]
This has gotten a fair amount of use on motors and drive sleeves. I make hardwood accessories bored for the appropriate shaft size. So far so good.:D
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Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
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