How to cut a 45 on an 8” Maple board

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h-bomb
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Post by h-bomb »

anmius wrote:There is an old carpenter's trick to cut miters like this on long boards. Put the boards in place overlapping at the miter. Clamp in place, mark a miter cut (half way) between the two boards (approximately 45 degrees). Then cut both boards in place at the same time. If there is no room to cut them in place, move both of them to a new location and re-align them by your previous marks. Then cut them both together. The key to a perfect fitting miter is to cut both boards together at the same time. It doesn't have to be exactly 45 degrees, just close. But if they are both cut together, they will fit perfectly.
Nice trick :D
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

wdphillips wrote:To that end... the two ends of the "L", 12' and 4' will be cut out of the same 16' board. If I cut the 45, turn over one board to create a 90, will I ha
ve a good fit?
Only if the corner is an absolute 90° angle.
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

Don't over think this. Just get some wood putty. No one will ever notice.

If you are cutting it on a chop saw check the alignment and the blade.
A good saw will produce a perfect 90 degree angle if that is what you need and a good blade will make the cut baby bottom smooth.

Measure twice and cut once!
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wdphillips
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Post by wdphillips »

Ed in Tampa wrote:Don't over think this. Just get some wood putty. No one will ever notice.

Measure twice and cut once!
Yes, I have used wood putty (and caulk) many times and... being annal, it drives me nuts!:eek: and as we all know, it a couple of years it changes colors, cracks, and does not look all that attractive.

So, if I can I try for a good dry fit (until I get tired and give up:rolleyes: )
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justplaingoofy
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Post by justplaingoofy »

Make a SQUARE piece for the corner that is thicker than the runs on the sides and ELIMINATE the miter alltogether. You can raise the square part with some 1/4" underlament, then hide it with moulding underneath.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

As a further possibly ridiculous extension of this 'conversation', make a perfect 45 miter in a 8" square and under cut the two sides so the ends of the boards will not show as described in the previous post.
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

wdphillips wrote:Yes, I have used wood putty (and caulk) many times and... being annal, it drives me nuts!:eek: and as we all know, it a couple of years it changes colors, cracks, and does not look all that attractive.

So, if I can I try for a good dry fit (until I get tired and give up:rolleyes: )
Sounds like you haven't mastered the art of wood putty.

In any case if you are really that annal, then throw away the chop saw and get out the mitre box, brass backed mitre saw, low angle block plane and perhaps a smoothing plane with a shooting board and fit the corner like a craftsman.

A good finish craftsman could fit those boards together not only with the seam being almost invisible the grain will continuous.

Been there done that. :D

Now I use a well aligned compound power mitre saw, a high dollar blade and scarey sharp low angle block plane and if I need some wood putty. :eek:
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wdphillips
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Post by wdphillips »

Ed in Tampa wrote:Sounds like you haven't mastered the art of wood putty.

In any case if you are really that annal, then throw away the chop saw and get out the mitre box, brass backed mitre saw, low angle block plane and perhaps a smoothing plane with a shooting board and fit the corner like a craftsman.

A good finish craftsman could fit those boards together not only with the seam being almost invisible the grain will continuous.

Been there done that. :D

Now I use a well aligned compound power mitre saw, a high dollar blade and scarey sharp low angle block plane and if I need some wood putty. :eek:

Ed... wow I am annal, but that good of a craftsman, no! I envy most of those skills but they seem be lost to all but a few.
1998 Mark V Model 510, Band Saw, Scroll Saw, Joiner, Belt Sander
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