offsetting profence for disc sanding

algale · Post by **algale** » Sat Jul 09, 2011 4:10 pm

I'm planning on using the steel (flat) sanding disc to sand several pieces to the same width.

On its website, Shopsmith suggests offsetting the fence 1/16th to 1/8th of inch to the rear and feeding from the back. Of course they show this with one of the old fences which had adjustment screws to the left and right of the locking mechanism.

I've got the newer 520 table and pro ripfence system. I realize I could loosen the 4 fence bolts to offset the fence. But setting it up square was a pain and I hate the idea of having to reset it.

So,my idea is as follows. There are two pads on the rip fence's head casting that glide along the fence rail. I will put a small piece of paper, folder over as necessary, between the right hand pad and the fence to act as a wedge. I will lock down only the front fence lock to avoid permanently racking the aluminum fence (which I fear will happen if I engage the rear lock with the back of the fence skewed. Any reason anyone can think of why this shouldn't work or would be a dangerous practice?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Jul 09, 2011 4:20 pm

I believe you could do what you suggest and be successful BUT I have done it differently with good success.

I attached a sacrificial fence to the ProFence using t-nuts in the side miter slot. The wedge was used (between the sacrificial fence and the fence) as you suggest to get the offset.

When in position, the ProFence was securely locked to the rails as it would be if ripping.

This worked well; however, my preferred method is using the conical disk which I assume is on your "want list".

:rolleyes:

greitz · Post by **greitz** » Sat Jul 09, 2011 4:25 pm

How about attaching an auxiliary fence, shimmed as necessary, to the 520 fence instead? Then you can lock the fence down as usual.

This is a perfect application for the conical disk, if you have one.

Gary

(Sorry Dusty, you beat me to it!)

algale · Post by **algale** » Sat Jul 09, 2011 4:30 pm

[quote="dusty"]I believe you could do what you suggest and be successful BUT I have done it differently with good success.

I attached a sacrificial fence to the ProFence using t-nuts in the side miter slot. The wedge was used (between the sacrificial fence and the fence) as you suggest to get the offset.

When in position, the ProFence was securely locked to the rails as it would be if ripping.

This worked well]

I like your method, Dusty but I don't think I've got any t nuts handy that will fit the rip fence. I also wish I had the conical disk, which would solve the problem very nicely! Speaking of the conical disc (as I hijack my own thread) is it as effective as the Shopsmith jointer for jointing?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Jul 09, 2011 4:41 pm

algale wrote:I like your method, Dusty but I don't think I've got any t nuts handy that will fit the rip fence. I also wish I had the conical disk, which would solve the problem very nicely! Speaking of the conical disc (as I hijack my own thread) is it as effective as the Shopsmith jointer for jointing?

It would be very tedious to dimension lumber using the sanding disk. If you try to take off too much with the conical disk you are asking for a rapid fire single shot across the shop. The conical should be used only for very light sanding.

You need to add some t-nuts to your next order from Shopsmith. Those t-slots in the rip fence come in handy for all sorts of things.

If you simply used clamps to attach the sacrificial fence (with wedge) to the rip fence, would the clamps get in the way of what you are sanding?

lv2wdwrk · Post by **lv2wdwrk** » Sat Jul 09, 2011 4:52 pm

Will the heads of toilet bolts (or some other type of flat headed bolt) fit the rip fence? Might be an alternative until you can get some t nuts.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Jul 09, 2011 5:02 pm

This is not really a solution to your problem but it may give you some ideas.

I use this a lot for tasks such as those depicted in the picture but I also use it for surface sanding pieces as much as 3" wide stock (maybe a little more) using the conical disk.

[ATTACH]13612[/ATTACH]

BTW 3/4" MDF is definitely over kill for this jig. With some proper bracing this could be made with 1/2" material and be much lighter in weight.

This particular fixture hugs the rip fence so firmly that I don't need to use t-nuts to secure it to the fence.

algale · Post by **algale** » Sat Jul 09, 2011 5:02 pm

dusty wrote: If you simply used clamps to attach the sacrificial fence (with wedge) to the rip fence, would the clamps get in the way of what you are sanding?

Yup. The stock is nearly as thick as the rip fence is high. Good news is that I ran down to the basement where my wood shop is and tried the paper wedge trick. It worked no problem.

algale · Post by **algale** » Sat Jul 09, 2011 5:07 pm

dusty wrote:This is not really a solution to your problem but it may give you some ideas.

I use this a lot for tasks such as those depicted in the picture but I also use it for surface sanding pieces as much as 3" wide (maybe a little more) using the conical disk.

[ATTACH]13612[/ATTACH]

That does look like something I should definitely build. I built a similar for my stand alone table saw when I was making a raised panel cutting jig. The link is on another woodworking site, here. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/38569.

greitz · Post by **greitz** » Sat Jul 09, 2011 5:10 pm

I guess I'm just lazy. I use double-sided tape to attach auxiliary fences for short-term projects. The good stuff (used for turning) has plenty of "stick" for that application. I jointed a chunk of 4x4 square, and use it as an auxiliary fence with 1/16" shims stacked as necessary.

Gary

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