Edge Glue Joint

onetrack · Post by **onetrack** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 10:02 am

I am new to woodworking, and have a question about an edge glue joint that I hope to make. It is part of a garden gate; the curved top. My intent is to make the curved board from a piece of 5/4 x 6 (1" finished thickness) and a piece of 5/4 x 8 cedar, glued together along their edge. Shown here with a tongue and groove joint. If I choose the tongue and groove, I have many options for cutting it. Table saw with dado, jointer (for the tongue), router, etc. But a flat joint (using the jointer), or a '555096 Glue Joint' using the molder is also an option, I guess.

After I glue the two together, I intend to cut the curve on the bandsaw.

What is your recommendations for the edge glue joint?

Thanks for your help,

onetrack

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 11:04 am

I'd go with the T&G. There are T&G router bit sets that will do it easily, or as you indicated, with the TS. However, you'll probably need a router anyway to do the tongue in the curve at the top, and the mating groove in the bottom of the top header. If you are going to have a frame around the T&G boards, I wouldn't glue them. They need to float to allow for expansion. Otherwise, they'll crack and push your frame apart. I'd only glue the frame together.
I'd also T&G the frame sides and bottom.
The T&G boards can be temporarily tacked together with hot melt glue to facilitate cutting the curve. Remember to make it long enough so you can rout a Tongue on the curved top and straight bottom. And, make the two outside boards wider than the rest to allow for their tongues and still match the others for exposed width.
TiteBond lll or epoxy would be the adhesive of choice to withstand the moisture the gate is sure to encounter.

berry · Post by **berry** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 11:28 am

I'd use the tongue and groove joint. I normally make T&G joints with my router table and a tongue and groove matched set like this.
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/LM5-862 ... er-Bit-Set

jimsjinx · Post by **jimsjinx** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 12:05 pm

A+ on the T&G, but if you have to do it differently, I have used rosewood dowels outdoors with good holding power if epoxy is used in the holes and along the edge. Acetone or denatured alcohol will clean up any squeeze out. jimsjinx

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 12:19 pm

That set fro McFeely that Berry cited are great bits. However, unless you are going to do production runs, here's a set for about $20 less. MLCS (Third set from the top)

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 12:46 pm

If this is a one and only, I'd do it (T&G) with a table saw (no additional purchases).

onetrack · Post by **onetrack** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 1:19 pm

And if it's not one and only? I have 6 such curved boards to make. I also have all of the tools on-hand (no additional purchases) for all the options listed above.

Which method would you use when it needs to be done 6 times?

onetrack

dusty wrote:If this is a one and only, I'd do it (T&G) with a table saw (no additional purchases).

onetrack · Post by **onetrack** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 1:24 pm

I forgot to add biscuits as another option. Too many choices.

onetrack

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 1:45 pm

I would opt for the glue joint. Increased glue surface area.

I am wondering where all that framing advice came from that Gene offered. I see no mention of framing it in before that.

Good idea though!

I am confused as I see the sequence to first create the joint, then saw the curved edges separately, then last step glue(then 'finish').

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 2:19 pm

Basically, there's no need for anything beyond jointing the mating surfaces and gluing the two boards together. If alignment is an issue and if you have the biscuit joiner, I'd go with it as it likely is the fastest method and will help keep the two boards aligned during glue up. Titebond III would be my choice for the glue.

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