[url=http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... ostcount=4]http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... ostcount=4]camerio wrote:"The more I play with this the more I like the solution that Charlese described here on the forum."
Could you tell us where Charlese described his solution ?
Not on this thread .... I must have misted this ...
Band saw woes
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JPG
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Oh my! My ears were burning! So---- Let me take you back to 2008, to a better posting. https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=1890&highlight=jig
Taking the liberty to quoting my self - (Underlining has been added for this post.)
"Many blades have this drift - making re-sawing truly a technique laden operation. I have tried the method described so well by Gary, but have had only limited (less than 100%) success. For amateurs like me that's why they make the 4.5" resawing guide, part No.522514. You can find this part on page 11 of the Father's Day catalog. I think Nick showed the use of this guide in one of his tips, or sawdust sessions.
You can also make your own guide by cutting a 2" long piece from a 4" or 5" wide board, rounding out one end and but-jointing the other end to a longer board. It looks like a T with a very short stem (about 2" long). Now you have a functional guide that you can clamp to your fence."
Let me add that I have had VERY LITTLE LUCK with the 5/8" blade recommended by Shopsmith. That blade is now relegated to the hanger on the wall. For me a 1/2" blade works a lot better.
Yes, I have in the past been plagued by the horrible blade bending which causes a concave/convex re-sawn surface - especially when using the 5/8" blade. After quite a bit of reading on this subject I think this malady has more to do with feeding too fast rather than tension. It is best to let the saw blade determine how fast the cut will happen.
I use only "cool blocks" to work properly they must touch the blade and they must have flat/full contacting surfaces on the blade. When positioned on my saw they add a bit of drag to the blade. No Problem because they also lubricate the blade. One must be careful the blocks on the lower guide are not tighter than those on the upper guide.
Taking the liberty to quoting my self - (Underlining has been added for this post.)
"Many blades have this drift - making re-sawing truly a technique laden operation. I have tried the method described so well by Gary, but have had only limited (less than 100%) success. For amateurs like me that's why they make the 4.5" resawing guide, part No.522514. You can find this part on page 11 of the Father's Day catalog. I think Nick showed the use of this guide in one of his tips, or sawdust sessions.
You can also make your own guide by cutting a 2" long piece from a 4" or 5" wide board, rounding out one end and but-jointing the other end to a longer board. It looks like a T with a very short stem (about 2" long). Now you have a functional guide that you can clamp to your fence."
Let me add that I have had VERY LITTLE LUCK with the 5/8" blade recommended by Shopsmith. That blade is now relegated to the hanger on the wall. For me a 1/2" blade works a lot better.
Yes, I have in the past been plagued by the horrible blade bending which causes a concave/convex re-sawn surface - especially when using the 5/8" blade. After quite a bit of reading on this subject I think this malady has more to do with feeding too fast rather than tension. It is best to let the saw blade determine how fast the cut will happen.
I use only "cool blocks" to work properly they must touch the blade and they must have flat/full contacting surfaces on the blade. When positioned on my saw they add a bit of drag to the blade. No Problem because they also lubricate the blade. One must be careful the blocks on the lower guide are not tighter than those on the upper guide.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Dusty,dusty wrote:A Question for those who repeatedly resaw successfully. I could not reply to this question because I only occasionally resaw successfully.
When resawing with a fence, do you position the piece to be used between the fence and the blade OR is the piece to be used "the cutoff"?
Between the fence and the blade. Look up the modifications I have posted over the months if you want your SS Bandsaw to saw with the best of them.
ldh
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bobgroh
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- Location: Just east of Kansas City, Missouri
Here are my somewhat uneducated (well, at least from a very new user of the bandsaw) comments:
1. 'Bowing' of the blade is different from 'drift'. Bowing is frequently caused by inadequate blade stiffness - stiffness is a result of blade design AND the tension - usually bowing is because the blade is not tensioned high enough.
2. According to one source I have ("The Bandsaw Book", Taunton Press, 1999, Lonnie Bird), it is almost impossible to adequately tension a 5/8" blade for resawing in a 14" normal bandsaw. That certainly indicates to me that trying to use a 5/8" blade in our SS 11" bandsaws is probably an exercise in futility. And that is probably why another member of this forum indicates he is now using a 1/2" maximum blade size. As will I.
3. The 'Wood Slicer' brand of blade has come out on top in a number of tests - it is on my list of goodies to pickup when I get serious with resawing.
Nice explanation of setting up to combat drift, by the way.
1. 'Bowing' of the blade is different from 'drift'. Bowing is frequently caused by inadequate blade stiffness - stiffness is a result of blade design AND the tension - usually bowing is because the blade is not tensioned high enough.
2. According to one source I have ("The Bandsaw Book", Taunton Press, 1999, Lonnie Bird), it is almost impossible to adequately tension a 5/8" blade for resawing in a 14" normal bandsaw. That certainly indicates to me that trying to use a 5/8" blade in our SS 11" bandsaws is probably an exercise in futility. And that is probably why another member of this forum indicates he is now using a 1/2" maximum blade size. As will I.
3. The 'Wood Slicer' brand of blade has come out on top in a number of tests - it is on my list of goodies to pickup when I get serious with resawing.
Nice explanation of setting up to combat drift, by the way.
Bob Groh
Blue Springs, Missouri (just east of Kansas City, MO)
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1984 SS Mark V updated to model 510
1994 SS Mark V updated to model 520
SS SPT's: Bandsaw
Other tools:routers, Bosch router table, Craftsman 6" jointer, Steel City 12" bench planer, Porter Cable 7" power saw, and too much other stuff (not really - just kidding!!)
Blue Springs, Missouri (just east of Kansas City, MO)
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1984 SS Mark V updated to model 510
1994 SS Mark V updated to model 520
SS SPT's: Bandsaw
Other tools:routers, Bosch router table, Craftsman 6" jointer, Steel City 12" bench planer, Porter Cable 7" power saw, and too much other stuff (not really - just kidding!!)
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Ed in Tampa
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dusty
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I started to review them yesterday but did not finish. I have Cool Blocks on both bandsaws, I have the split bearing sets on one and the original bearing type on the other, and I have no Kreg fence. If there are other mods, I'll find them today.ldh wrote:Dusty,
Between the fence and the blade. Look up the modifications I have posted over the months if you want your SS Bandsaw to saw with the best of them.
ldh
Thanks for the reply.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty,dusty wrote:I started to review them yesterday but did not finish. I have Cool Blocks on both bandsaws, I have the split bearing sets on one and the original bearing type on the other, and I have no Kreg fence. If there are other mods, I'll find them today.
Thanks for the reply.
I am not a fan of the Cool Blocks for any type of resawing. I have found little use for them with any blade of ¼" or more. Get a set of the Ceramic Blocks from Bill M. or a set of the Carters and I think you will be happy with resaw provided you use a ½" or greater 2-3 tpi blade. When a correct bandsaw blade just does not feel right cutting it is time for a new one.
ldh
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dusty
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Thanks for the feedback. Current budget does not allow but I will put those at the top of the NEED LIST.ldh wrote:Dusty,
I am not a fan of the Cool Blocks for any type of resawing. I have found little use for them with any blade of ¼" or more. Get a set of the Ceramic Blocks from Bill M. or a set of the Carters and I think you will be happy with resaw provided you use a ½" or greater 2-3 tpi blade. When a correct bandsaw blade just does not feel right cutting it is time for a new one.
ldh
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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gr8mesquite
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- Location: Tucson, AZ.
Band Sawoes
Thanks for the fine discussion. Based upon a few of the comments, after checking my technique with another Tucson member on Sat. (this), I'm inclined to throw some money at the problem and try a 1/2" Wood Slicer. I will also crank up the tension.
BTW Bob(Groh), I'm sure you're aware that if you covet the Highland blade,
then 1/2" is the only choice you have. While Highland makes a 3/4" blade, SS warns against using anything larger than a 5/8" on our machine. Right?
Thanks again
Jerry
BTW Bob(Groh), I'm sure you're aware that if you covet the Highland blade,
then 1/2" is the only choice you have. While Highland makes a 3/4" blade, SS warns against using anything larger than a 5/8" on our machine. Right?
Thanks again
Jerry
I recieved some (used) blades with my purchase, and the 5/8 I tried was the "drift king" of blades.
With the help of those here and some patience I was able to use mt 1/4x4 blade with some success resawing but slowly.
I just ordered the other day 2 timberwolf blades, I hope they were a good reccomendation? After I spoke with them I came down to 4 blades (ordered the 2 in red):
1/2x4 resawing and thicker stock
1/4x4 general purpose
3/16x10 best all around blade with good turniing radius and smooth lines
1/8x14 fine and thinner work
I think a summary of all these tips, and previous thread tips would be awesome, I'm just not qualifed to sort them out
. These bandsaw tips are some of the best info I've read on the forum, except maybe the gopher killin or the "flower vs flour" one, or the steaks on the SS, or the.......
With the help of those here and some patience I was able to use mt 1/4x4 blade with some success resawing but slowly.
I just ordered the other day 2 timberwolf blades, I hope they were a good reccomendation? After I spoke with them I came down to 4 blades (ordered the 2 in red):
1/2x4 resawing and thicker stock
1/4x4 general purpose
3/16x10 best all around blade with good turniing radius and smooth lines
1/8x14 fine and thinner work
I think a summary of all these tips, and previous thread tips would be awesome, I'm just not qualifed to sort them out
. These bandsaw tips are some of the best info I've read on the forum, except maybe the gopher killin or the "flower vs flour" one, or the steaks on the SS, or the.......R Hart