Freud LU86 or LU88 TS blade?

[solicitr]

Wondering which of these two (40T and 60T, both thin-kerf) would work better as an everyday general-purpose blade in a SS. A new saw deserves a new blade, right?

Would also like suggestions for comparable blades in the same (~$50) price range: but, please, no Forrest Woodworkers or other three-figure blades. I've just about blown my budget already!

[dusty]

Why are you looking any farther than the Shopsmith Spring Projects catalog. The online edition is available right now.

[Nick]

Only one of the blades you've listed (LU86) is a general-purpose blade; the other (LU88) is for crosscutting only. If you've read an ad somewhere that touts the LU88 as a general-purpose blade, the copywriter is too lazy to learn how to use the tools he or she is writing about. There isn't enough room in the gullets of the LU88 to rip; the blade cannot clear the long chips generated by ripping fast enough.

With all good wishes,

[solicitr]

Sorry, I'm too tired today or something. I *meant* the LU83 tk combo.

[8iowa]

I find that the Shopsmith 50 tooth combination blade does a very good job on just about all cuts. That being said, I also have the 24 tooth rip blade and the 60 tooth crosscut blade. While the latter two are used only about 10 percent of the time, there are cuts where they are better, perhaps even essential. Fortunately, with the Shopsmith, changing blades is quick and easy - not the case with most other table saws.

With these three blades you can cover almost all sawing needs. If however you are embarking on a project where you need to cut melamine, particle board, or MDF you might want to add an 80 tooth laminate blade. Freud has one for about $85. I have a 5/8 arbor for just such an occasion.

By-the-way, my latest project required precision and smooth cuts in 3/4" Baltic Plywood. The 60 tooth crosscut blade did the job beautifully.

[mtobey]

I use a Freud Glue-Line Rip and it is amazing in crosscut as well.mt

[reible]

Hi,

As they say:
"Don't hesitate to give advice; It passes the time, and nobody will follow it anyway."

I've had very good results with Freud blades. I own several for my shopsmith and some for my miter box saws... I would have no problem recommending them, just make sure you get what your looking for, either a general purpose or combination blade.

The two most recent purchases have gone to a company called Infinity. The blade that might be of interest to you is the Combo-Max, a rip & crosscut blade, but it is a few $$ more, some where in the $65 range but if you get on the mailing list they have specials... I think I paided more like $55. In this case I went with the 1/8" blade because it is easier to do step rips using 1/8" kerf (think Jointech or Incra fence). The other blade I have is the Ripper but that is in the thin kerf... they are in the $50 range.
http://www.infinitytools.com

I've also been buying router bits from them, actual I started getting router bits then went for the saw blades.

Ed

[solicitr]

The reviews for the Combo-Max look very good: but where can you buy one except from the factory? None of the usual tool sites and stores seem to carry it. And is the full-kerf a problem given the SS's lack of a 5-horse motor?

[reible]

[quote="solicitr"]The reviews for the Combo-Max look very good: but where can you buy one except from the factory? None of the usual tool sites and stores seem to carry it. And is the full-kerf a problem given the SS's lack of a 5-horse motor? ]

The only place I know to get Infinity products is from their web site.

I hate to get into the lack of power thing as I think I may have stalled my saw less then a half dozen times in the almost 32 years I've owned it. And in each case I was at fault at least in some way. I do have thin kerf blades and my standard rip blades are both that style and for the most part that does a couple of things for you... but that is another subject. Anyway you can always dial down your speed to take advantage of using a shopsmith over a standard table saw that must run at full speed all the time.

If someone were to really prove just how much power these tools provide it would be a simple thing to do, just like they do for cars you hook it up to and measure. Of couse no one want to do that, they would rather just guess at how they thing are. Keep in mind too that the motor horse power is only one of the things that determines the final out put at the shaft... loses due to belts and pulleys and then gear ratios, no they never mention that either...

Anyway back to blades, the other blade they make which interests me is the Super General Blade that lists for $110. Just a little to rich for me right now. It has been on sale for $100 but that is still a bit too much. So many tools so little money.

Ed

[solicitr]

Thanks, Ed. BTW my 'power' comment was tongue in cheek. I just placed on disability retirement my Ryobi BT3000, another much derided tool maligned for being 'underpowered,' which wasn't really, even though the charge was somewhat more justified given its high-rev universal motor. I grew up with my dad's old Craftsman 100, rated at only one pony, which was an absolute woodeating beast.

Having said that, most manufacturers including Forrest and Freud recommend thin-kerf blades for all sub-2HP (i.e. all 110V) tablesaws.