Cross Cut vs Rip Cut

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Fri Mar 16, 2012 3:10 pm

Robinson
I think that I saw that TV show also. Made me cringe. All I could think of was Osorio v Ryobi and the same cut was tried in that instance also.

Dusty;
I have used the fence for some cross cutting when the dimensions were almost the same but used the miter gauge with an extended fence to cross cut the wider doors I also used the fence only to cut the dado in the side carcases to assemble the cabinets. The cabinet sides are 8' long and 24" deep but I used the two push blocks that came with the jointer to maintain control but of course these cuts were NOT through cuts.
[ATTACH]16688[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]16689[/ATTACH]

Bill V

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Mar 16, 2012 5:00 pm

My take on this is that a safe operation is one where the operator understands any issues that may arise, is prepared to react to(or preferably to prevent) them.

The rip fence due to its creating a possible pinching of the workpiece should not be used if alternative procedures are possible.

That said, it should be obvious that a long narrow cut lends itself to use of the rip fence rather than the miter gauge or a sled.

The scenario that I cringe at is where multiple short cutoffs are being made and the series of cutoff pieces are still bouncing on the table while subsequent cuts are made. With the inclusion of the rip fence to allow the bouncing cutoffs to rebound off, a real exciting scene is being 'nurtured'!

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Sat Mar 17, 2012 12:06 am

My rule of which method will allow me to have the most control over the wood.

If the board is long and narrow and I'm cutting the board to make it more narrow most likely I will have the most control using the rip fence.

If I'm cutting it to make it shorter then probably the cross cut sled.

If the board is short say under 2 ft and I was cutting it shorter I would use the miter gauge.

On board 11 by 15 just guessing I would probably rip them the to the 11 width and then using the cross cut sled cut them to 15 long.

To put both hands on the board (both sides of the blade) you must stand directly in line with the cut. And kickback and you are going to be eating wood.

I imagine the TV pro's do it because they don't want any stray pieces of wood flying around hitting cameras and/or lights. Better to hit the actor, the hit can be editted out rather than take out a camera that might shut down production until a replacment is found.

Just my guess

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Mar 17, 2012 1:24 am

Ed in Tampa wrote:My rule of which method will allow me to have the most control over the wood.

If the board is long and narrow and I'm cutting the board to make it more narrow most likely I will have the most control using the rip fence.

If I'm cutting it to make it shorter then probably the cross cut sled.

If the board is short say under 2 ft and I was cutting it shorter I would use the miter gauge.

On board 11 by 15 just guessing I would probably rip them the to the 11 width and then using the cross cut sled cut them to 15 long.

To put both hands on the board (both sides of the blade) you must stand directly in line with the cut. And kickback and you are going to be eating wood.

I imagine the TV pro's do it because they don't want any stray pieces of wood flying around hitting cameras and/or lights. Better to hit the actor, the hit can be editted out rather than take out a camera that might shut down production until a replacment is found.

Just my guess

You left out 'ignorance' of the problem!;)

derekdarling · Post by **derekdarling** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 1:53 am

I think in this particular discussion, the words 'rip' and 'crosscut' are redundant when talking about MDF. MDF has no 'grain'. You can't cut with OR across a grain that doesn't exist. Might as well be talking about cutting gypsum board... but with a different kind of dust.

I'm just sayin'... Language is a tricky thing. Whenever I hear 'Rip or Crosscut', the very first thing I think of is the set on the blade, and the fleam (or lack thereof for a rip saw).

Derek

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 2:41 am

derekdarling wrote:I think in this particular discussion, the words 'rip' and 'crosscut' are redundant when talking about MDF. MDF has no 'grain'. You can't cut with OR across a grain that doesn't exist. Might as well be talking about cutting gypsum board... but with a different kind of dust.

I'm just sayin'... Language is a tricky thing. Whenever I hear 'Rip or Crosscut', the very first thing I think of is the set on the blade, and the fleam (or lack thereof for a rip saw).

Derek

Say What??????? Blood letting?????

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 2:45 am

JPG40504 wrote:Say What??????? Blood letting?????

P.S. Good Morning!;)

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 8:12 pm

I didn't know about the "bloodletting" definition of fleam

. Just saw it the first time tonight.

For saws, the other definition of fleam is:
Fleam: The angle of the faces of the teeth relative to a line perpendicular to the face of the saw.

derekdarling · Post by **derekdarling** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 8:16 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Say What??????? Blood letting?????

Fleam:
Etymology:
phlebotomon through Late Latin phlebotomus through Old French flieme: open vein.

Noun:
fleam 1.A sharp instrument used to open a vein for bleeding (Usually for bleeding horses).
2.A lancet.

Derived terms
&#8226]http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html[/url]

Derek

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 8:19 pm

I like that one much better than what I 'found'!:eek:
http://medicalantiques.com/medical/Scarifications_and_Bleeder_Medical_Antiques.htm