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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 7:42 pm
by dusty
woodshopflunky wrote:Well, the first thing I noticed was the plastic coupler was jammed onto the powerhead side, used a pair of pliers to free the powerhead collet-there was a bunch of rust colored gunk around the spring. I have to collet on the headstock, tigthened the ser screw.
When I slide the headstock to the bandsaw, the coupler doesn't want to slide onto the bandsaw collet, I have the plastic internal spines lined up with the grooves in the bandsaw collet. The plastic coupler only goes a hair. Basically everything seems to be lined up, it's just incredibaly tough to the headstock(and coupler) to slide that last inch.
Hopes this clears things up.
Carl
The hubs and the coupler should not be tight. The end of the coupler that does NOT have a spring goes onto the hub on the SPT. It should slide on and off with only very slight resistance. Same at the other end. When you push the couppler onto the hub and let loose, the spring should eject it.
If the splines in the ends of the coupler are damaged, they may be seizing the coupler. If that be the case, you should be able to see the damage.
If the hubs are not aligned with one another (drive shaft and SPT), the coupler would be cocked somewhat and would be hard to push on.
Alignment of the hubs, I believe, can best be done without the coupler.
After many years, I have gotten good at aligning the jointer and/or bandsaw hubs (without help) but over those many years I have done a lot of humbling and even used an expletive now and then (if you can believe that).
BTW The couplers are pretty darn tough. I'll not be surprised if you find you do not need a coupler.
Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 10:49 pm
by beeg
woodshopflunky wrote:We figured it out, it looks like the ShopSmith brand coupler is "out of round", it wobbles a little bit when on either the bandsaw or headstock and rotated by hand.
Carl
First off, like Dusty suggested make sure the hubs line up. Top to bottom and left to right. Remove the coupler from the hub. Slide the headstock up to the bandsaw hub to see if they line up properly.
Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 12:30 am
by JPG
Welcome to the forum. Do check the top two posts in the maintenance and repair forum. I recommend a thorough lubrication before extensive use.
Enjoy!
Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 12:17 am
by db5
dusty wrote:The hubs and the coupler should not be tight. The end of the coupler that does NOT have a spring goes onto the hub on the SPT. It should slide on and off with only very slight resistance. Same at the other end. When you push the couppler onto the hub and let loose, the spring should eject it.
Two questions:
Why should the hubs not be tight? I can understand not having full compression on the coupler but I haven't figured this one out. I would think they should be tight.
Why does it make a difference whether the spring end is connected to the SPT or the accessory tool? If it is connected it is connected.
Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 7:03 am
by dusty
db5 wrote:Two questions:
Why should the hubs not be tight? I can understand not having full compression on the coupler but I haven't figured this one out. I would think they should be tight.
Why does it make a difference whether the spring end is connected to the SPT or the accessory tool? If it is connected it is connected.
I am just saying that hubs and couplers fit together that way and are not normally difficult to disengage. It the coupler is hard to pull off of the hub, something has changed.
I believe the spring is a safety factor. It prevents you from operating the headstock with the coupler hanging off the shaft. The coupler is marked to show its' intended relationship with the headstock and spt. Why would you want to disregard that?