Page 2 of 2
Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 4:03 pm
by foureyes45
Yes a arbor from SS for sure...Thanks:)
Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 4:27 pm
by fjimp
I agree with six inch and molder head suggestions. I have used mine frequently and find it an excellent choice. Jim
Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 7:05 pm
by swampgator
Back to algale's post regarding speed and smoother cuts, for the smaller diameter blades, do we reduce the speed? Or, do we maintain it to keep the teeth speed up so that you get more scraps/cuts per board inch?
Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 11:01 pm
by JPG
swampgator wrote:Back to algale's post regarding speed and smoother cuts, for the smaller diameter blades, do we reduce the speed? Or, do we maintain it to keep the teeth speed up so that you get more scraps/cuts per board inch?
As with any cutting operation, the more material being 'cut' the more the motor is loaded. This comes into play with the wide dado cuts.
Notice on the speed charts that the speed setting is 2/3 that for a 8"(Magna dado) than for a 6" dado.
As always the tool will tell you if an appropriate speed is being used. That pre-emps any chart info.
FWIW the blade speed at the periphery of a 6" blade is about 2/3 that of an 8" blade.
Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 4:33 am
by paulmcohen
The 8" Dadonator is rated up to 7,500 RPM, and at 3,450 cuts as smooth as glass. I posted a picture on the forum of a long dado I cut with it leaving a sliver less than 1/64" wide over 24" long. They also have a 6" blade that is highly rated, I would not recommend the 8" Dadonator on anything except a PowerPro, on my 520 it look a long time to get up to speed when cutting a 3/4" dado but it also does not bog down much once it get there even through oak because of the huge mass.
On a 220 volt PowerPro I don't even thing about startup lag.
The last good article I saw about 6" vs. 8" focused on two things, how deep a dado you could cut and how powerful was your saw. If all you are ever cutting is dadoes less than 3/4" the 6" blade works great.
Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 10:26 pm
by swampgator
I use a 10" dado stacked set and have cut many picture frames from cedar. I've never had my 500 to bog or hesitate. I cut my patterns and rabbets, then sand followed by using my mitre saw to cut my mitres. I use the "O" speed to cut my dados and rabbets. Of course, cedar is pretty soft and I never get a burn. The reason I asked the question is I wanted to know if I was doing something wrong. Need to work some cherry for a mirror frame. But, at this point, won't be using any dados on it. Thanks for the help.