Shopsmith Forums

A trick is to find a board with a known flat edge. A piece of MDF for example. Take the curved piece and tack it to the piece of mdf with the flat, known edge against a fence and the curve facing the blade side. Then rip the bow of the board off. Or use the same trick with the known flat on the bottom and the curved piece carpet taped to the board with the curve against the flat. Run the piece accross the jointer blades keeping tight against the fence. This piece would be hard to manage if too tall above the fence. Same trick when passing bowed pieces through a planer, however there is a limit as to how bowed. Different tricks to get around your situation.

Thanks for tip. I may have miss-used the word 'warped.' It was probably what you refer to as bowed.

saminmn wrote:Thanks for tip. I may have miss-used the word 'warped.' It was probably what you refer to as bowed.

A bowed board is warped.

A crooked board is swarped.

A twisted board is warped.

A cupped board is warped.

Solutions vary for each.


P.S. some warped boards are all three!:eek:

Well after thinking about the problems I was having ripping the (warped) side parts of my apron down toward 3/8" and expecting a 4 1/2' board to be harder to manage, I have gone back to 3/4" thickness for the sides and back of the apron. I am glad I did not try to route out the area for the vise or cut the front apron board to length prioor to the decision.

So today I have ripped the sides and ends to width and cut the miters of the sides and the back and am ready to attach them. I am planning a single row of 1 1/2" flat head screws. I am not planning to do plugs over the screws. Don't know if glue is needed/normal. I will align these boards with the bottom edge of the table top. Then after I have added the 1/8" hardboard, I will trim the top edge of the apron with a router trim bit and then use an 1/8" round-over bit around the table top.

Ideas/advice?

Well real visible progress today as I attached the sides and back of the apron to the workbench . Here is the underside (sorry about being sideways:( ):[ATTACH]17958[/ATTACH]
The next picture shows the top side with the front piece of the workbench and vise face waiting to be added.[ATTACH]17959[/ATTACH]
The workbench getting this top is in the background.

My workbench is progressing:D and it will be completed in a day or two. I think I will glue the sides and back of the apron to the new workbench top. I don't plan on gluing the face board of the apron so I can access the vise if needed.

I am wondering if I need to seal up the MDF or other parts. If so, with what?

Thanks,

I recently finished a workbench with an apron and a 3/8 hardboard top. I did bench holes and the the top is one layer of plywood and 2 of mdf, all 3/4. The dogs hold perfectly and for the hardboard y used a few bronze screws that will not damage tools.

eartigas wrote:I recently finished a workbench with an apron and a 3/8 hardboard top. I did bench holes and the the top is one layer of plywood and 2 of mdf, all 3/4. The dogs hold perfectly and for the hardboard y used a few bronze screws that will not damage tools.

Sounds like a nice setup. A good deal heavier than mine, although mine is about as heavy as I am able to manage safely. Did you put a finish on yours? And if so, please describe.

Well my workbench redo is done give or take making bench dogs, vise handle, etc.

To get it done, I had to get a little creative. Not sure this is a good way to get familiar with the drill press:D
[ATTACH]18024[/ATTACH]
got a nice row of holes
[ATTACH]18025[/ATTACH]
Attach the top to the frame and it is done!!
[ATTACH]18026[/ATTACH]

It has more than its share of 'unique features':D ...but it is functional and done.

That's the same way I drilled my dog-holes .

Nice job on your bench! I've had mine (somewhat similar to yours) for 5 years and couldn't do without it.