Shopsmith Forums

Sam
The belt sander table tlts also. If you can try to make a longer piece of stock to cut the bevel on. Say about 18" long. After you cut the bevel using the band saw and flattening the cut on the jointer you can cross cut the piece to whatever length you want and be safer than trying to cut very short pieces on the table saw.
Bill V

Well things did not go too well last night. This morning though I took another run at and had more success. First I tried doing the cuts using the table tilted with a fence tried it a couple of times. I am not sure why the set up did not work, but it did not get close.
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Not sure how best to show the results using this setup. I tried a couple if ways. The first was a shot of each board after it had been cut with the trailing face backed up to the blade.
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I tweaked the miter setting between the first and second boards. Drift may be a little less on second board. The cutting away from line to waist side got bigger-this due to me not re checking. On both boards, I made multiple passes as slow as I could. It just would not go where I wanted. The next post will show the results a different way and the final results from this morning.

Here are some other views of the problem cuts:
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The board on the right was first cut and the board on the left was after adjusting fence a smidgen. Next pic is first cut

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Next is another pic of second board cut
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I will use another post for the "good" cuts.

This morning I tried doing the cut freehand on a flat table with the workpiece standing on end (grain vertical). This went much better than last night. I will be able to sand these flat pretty easily, with out going through too much sandpaper I think.
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I was able to get adequate surfaces on both pieces. I think the knot running down the length of the blocks was what was causing trouble as the blade was bulging/bowing out. I know if I were to do it again, I would see if steering against a point coming off a locked down miter wouldn't work better than a long miter face.

beeg wrote:What size blade are ya using?

I am not sure. The saw came with a mounted blade and 2 others. Mounted blade looks to be 1/4" with 6 teeth/inch.

The other blades are in their SS packaging, unopened. One has 1/4 x 014 x 14R marked. The other has 5/8 x 016 x 3/4VT marked.

Sam;
I would opt for the 5/8" blade with the 4TPI count. There several things that will make a bandsaw blade act as yours did.
1. Improper blade tension.
2. A dull blade
3. Teeth flattened on one side or the blade or too much drift.
4. Blade guide under the table not set properly. (the under table guide assembly is not adjusted and the blade runs free of the guide underneath the table.)
If the under table guide is set to contain the blade and you get a cut that looks like this ) or this ( then your feed rate may be too fast or the blade is just bad.
Our woodworking just finished making over 500 "race Cars" for a handicapped kids camp here in Florida and the saws used were two SS bandsaws. One of the blades has already cut over 700 of these "cars"
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The cars are in the background of the table and are cut on the long side similar to your cut.
Bill V

wa2crk wrote:Sam]18109[/ATTACH]
The cars are in the background of the table and are cut on the long side similar to your cut.
Bill V

Thanks for tips. When I was making the cut I wonder to myself how I would know if the blade was dull. I wanted to see how the saw did with no changes by me so that if all went smooth I would have a reference point for any changes I made. Looks like I am going to half to wing it. I have yet to check any of the areas you have suggested may have contributed. But I did put the table back to square and noted that the auto stop adjustment had not been set (was backed out of the way), so while blade tension was properly set, that may be about it. On the first cut, I initially had a lot of squeal that went way down with use (I don't know if I adjusted my feed rate or why it diminished). Anyway, alignment and adjustment are in the saw's future.