Just got a Mark 5

wrmnfzy · Post by **wrmnfzy** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 4:44 pm

See attached PDF and word doc. Hope this helps.

stickthrower · Post by **stickthrower** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:14 am

wrmnfzy- Thanks for the files! The pdf is the same sled I found online yesterday that I was looking at making.

Charlese- Thank you for your help. Still working on getting this figured out. I was looking in my box of tools and was hoping to find something in there for a sled. Didn't find that. So I am going to work on making on this weekend so I can finish the box.

I will post pics once I finish it. It isn't anything fancy, but I am hoping to make it nice at least!

Thanks!

Nathan

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:46 am

stickthrower wrote:wrmnfzy- Thanks for the files! The pdf is the same sled I found online yesterday that I was looking at making.

Charlese- Thank you for your help. Still working on getting this figured out. I was looking in my box of tools and was hoping to find something in there for a sled. Didn't find that. So I am going to work on making on this weekend so I can finish the box.

I will post pics once I finish it. It isn't anything fancy, but I am hoping to make it nice at least!

Thanks!

Nathan

If you want 1/2" pins start by working on your dado blade. Make it as close as you possibly can to 1/2" +- 0.00". I am not kidding. The width of your cuts is critical to good fit.

Then, on your jig, make that guide pin equally close to 1/2" in width.

If you get the jig built accurately, making box joints can be a blast. They really look neat when done correctly. Don't be disappointed if the first two or three do not meet your expectations. Doing them right is much more demanding than they they appear to be.

Good luck. HAVE FUN. Make a test corner first before you start your project.

stickthrower · Post by **stickthrower** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:58 am

Thanks Dusty!

Yeah, I am going to be working on the sled this week so that I can get this done. I will also pull the dado off and make sure I have it set correctly. I got a digital caliper awhile back. Might be time to pull that out.

This is the first box I am attempting. But I have many others that I am wanting to make. So the sled will definitely help with that!

Fun, woodworking. Same thing, right?!

Thanks!

nathan

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 9:46 am

stickthrower wrote:Thanks Dusty!

Yeah, I am going to be working on the sled this week so that I can get this done. I will also pull the dado off and make sure I have it set correctly. I got a digital caliper awhile back. Might be time to pull that out.

This is the first box I am attempting. But I have many others that I am wanting to make. So the sled will definitely help with that!

Fun, woodworking. Same thing, right?!

Thanks!

nathan

You might have said but I am not certain what sort of dado you have. IMO, stacked dado blades are easier to get set to the correct thickness. If you have an adjustable dado, it may take two or three test cuts to get it right. Some adjustables work pretty good while others can be a bear to set. Be patient.

Your caliper may not work real well for setting the dado thickness on an adjustable. The teeth that make the extreme edge cuts are not opposite one another. If the dial doesn't do the trick, test cuts will.

A Tip: Make your cuts just a wee bit deeper than the thickness of the finished pieces. This allows you to sand off the protruding pieces to get smooth external sides.

This is probably the very best joint I have managed. I have made many that do not look near as good as these. Obviously I did not take pictures of those]18237[/ATTACH]

Culprit · Post by **Culprit** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 1:26 pm

Here is a linkto a box joint jig that is more accurate than indexing off the previous cut - since the index pin will compound any error with each additional cut. This jig uses a threaded rod and gears to precisely advance the workpiece in the sled for each additional cut.

I have not made this jig, but I have made some other things from Matthias' plans, and I have been very pleased with them. His box joint jig is on my to do list.

Culprit · Post by **Culprit** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 1:27 pm

dusty wrote:[ATTACH]18237[/ATTACH]

That's a good looking joint, Dusty!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 1:36 pm

Culprit wrote:That's a good looking joint, Dusty!

Hand picked for the photo op.

They are not all like this.

I also cheat. These were not cut with a box joint jig and a dado blade. I use a router and Incra Fence to do box joints.

wrmnfzy · Post by **wrmnfzy** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 1:49 pm

Question: The model 500 SS original table saw table. What size sled would be the optimum for that table size? I'm debating the size as I will be making it this weekend. Any thoughts would be appreciated, other than the obvious upgrading the table.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Aug 22, 2012 2:38 am

wrmnfzy wrote:Question: The model 500 SS original table saw table. What size sled would be the optimum for that table size? I'm debating the size as I will be making it this weekend. Any thoughts would be appreciated, other than the obvious upgrading the table.

I think the sled should be as large as possible. If straight(not bevel) cuts are assumed, the extension table can provide support.

It all depends upon what you will be cutting with it.

Shopsmith Forums

Just got a Mark 5

Finger joint box jig

Sled