keakap wrote:SLED:...an auxiliary fence- taller than the workpiece- to them both. ....
An upgrade to the "Cheap man's- I mean really really cheap- crosscut sled":
(assuming you don't need support to the left of the blade):
# first time the rig runs thru the blade, make the cut completely thru the Aux fence. That's your "cut Line".
# acquire a FastCap "Old Standby Flatback" tape (chea-- uh, inexpensive)];
# take your square and set it on the WP with the blade positioned exactly on the cut-mark (which if you want to do this with max accuracy and/or in the dark will be a knife or scribe line, not pencil);
# then holding the square firmly to the WP slide both to the right until the square's blade just makes contact with the Aux fence end.
# while holding the WP (w/ hand or clamp) firmly in place, remove the square and tape;
#cut.
{other details like supprting the cutoff and such are not unique and are left out}
This method is extremely accurate, eliminates paralax problems, and, if you don't re-read these steps with each cut, is Fast once yer used to it. {I used it for all the 2x4s for my workbench- 53" to 16"- and could not read any error without magnification.}
[hope i got all of it right]
As mentioned, Max accuracy attained with knife used to make cut-marks instead of pencil. Almost always is anaway.