Shopsmith Forums

randyrls wrote:I have used a socket from a 3/8" socket set. They come in multiple sizes. Use a soft blow hammer and many light taps. The socket MUST bear against the outer rim of the bearing.

I always use the INNER race. Using the outer rim can and will damage the bearing.

Dusty,
I had a problem one time with needing to remove/replace bearings. I went to my local Autozone-type store. In the rear of their store they had a bearing press/remover. They allowed me to use it & I was in and out of the store in about 10 minutes. A few years ago I came across a college kid selling a used Harbor Freight press. I used it to remove and replace the bearings in 3 headstocks.

BTW Nachi makes really good bearings. However, it was a Nachi bearing I had on the distributor of my 1993 Honda Civic. The original bearings in Civics and Accords were failing because of metal dust covers which allowed the lubrication to escape over a period of 10 years. This would cause the bearing to seize. If you have a Honda engine, you know that is going to hurt as the engine has an "interference" design which will result in bent values should the timing belt break or slip- something which happened to a friend of mine & cost him $2K to repair the engine. I inspected my bearing & found a brown powder around the bearing- it was dry and getting read to fail.

Nachi had a notice to people ordering the OEM bearing and had a substitute with seals that prevent the escape of grease inside the bearing- the "power" of the Internet is priceless sometimes! The repair cost me $20- that includes a $1.50 bridge toll, gas, and the cost of a new bearing. The guys in the auto parts store told me that I was "crazy" and it wouldn't work. Well, 10 years later, the car is still on the road with over 300,000 miles… Oh Honda did a recall on Accords to my knowledge, but never recalled the Civics for the distributor bearing issue. But it was no skin off my nose.

I would use a press if you want to be "sure" all goes well. Otherwise you risk inflicting damage. However, if you want to know a trick I also use, you can try it. Take the drive sleeve assy and superfreeze it. Then heat/warm the bearing. Sometimes you'll be able to slip the bearing on the frozen shaft. Spraying the shaft with "freeze spray" will "shrink" the shaft & give you a couple of seconds to put the bearing where you want it. Good luck.

joshh wrote:I always use the INNER race. Using the outer rim can and will damage the bearing.

Outer to remove from housing[However, the rear bearing race is not accessible]

Inner to remove/install from/on shaft

The assembly should not need to be 'forced' into the housing[headstock].

'Pulling' off shaft by applying pressure to the outer race(while inner race refuses to move) can result in a broken race.

[ATTACH]20182[/ATTACH]

Nut not relevant!;)

[quote="JPG40504"]

Nut not relevant!]

I apologize but must take exception with "Nut not Relevant" Without the nut who loves his Shopsmith enough to desire making it better, all is lost and this discussion would be meaningless. Jim

What Jim Said!!!

I was referring to the nut mixed in with the broken bearing parts, not the 'photographer'!:D

JPG40504 wrote:I was referring to the nut mixed in with the broken bearing parts, not the 'photographer'!:D

My remark was not specifically intended in any direction. Still if shoe fits????? Okay I admit the temptation was just to great. Jim:rolleyes::eek::)

fjimp wrote:My remark was not specifically intended in any direction. Still if shoe fits????? Okay I admit the temptation was just to great. Jim:rolleyes::eek::)

Humor still appreciated!!