Shopsmith Forums

johnwilliamson062 wrote:Well, actually that brings up another question. Turning small diameter and short blanks. It seems to me as if turning a pen blank in my SS would result in it twisting into splinters or flying across the room. Isn't that what they make "mini-lathes" for? I am not sure why I think this. A shorter blank should twist less than a long one and the compression holding it between centers won't shift. My local Woodcraft salesman assured me it would work fine.

Next project is an ice cream scoop for fathers day. I have a blank of Cherry and one of rosewood. Enough to make at least four attempts at the handle. I should get something to work out. All I have to worry about is if I have a reaction to rosewood. I have never worked with it. I have made a few things out of Cherry without problems.

You do need different tooling for working with small objects on any lathe. Look at the Penn State Industries pen turning mandrel for the SS. You will also need a 60 degree live center for this. There are other options but this is probably the easiest. For Pens there is also the use of dead and live center to hold a tube in compression between the head and tail stock. Keyword to search for is "Turning Between Centers" or "TBC", many people find this more accurate for small tubes.

The tool I find most useful for holding small items is an ER32 Collet Chuck. I aslo got mine from PSI, these are also available from CSUSA, and Beall. These are often available with 5 collets in different sizes. You will need an adapter to go from the SS 5/8" quill to 1" x 8 TPI threads. I use the same adapter for my scroll chuck, and collet chuck.

Other helpful tools for small item turning. Digital Calipers, Sharp tools, various measuring guides, sharp tools, and did I mention sharp tools?

As for rosewood (or any other wood sensitivity) pretty much the only way to determine is to try. If you have known allergy or respiratory issues, please use appropriate breathing protection and fine dust collection.

Show us the Ice Cream scoop when finished.

[quote="JPG40504"]When the center comes out first, the bearing becomes very difficult to remove since the threaded hole is slightly smaller than the bearing center. There is nothing to grab or push against. Try extricating one that has been in place a half century!]
Sorry, I don't have one that is 50 years old, mine is a youngster at 37 years... (that was the one I took the picture of).

I will try and remember to give it another try in 13 more years.

What I do have is a 35 year old one that I will take apart today and video tape the bearing removal. If it goes as I expect from my previous experience it will be a short video.

I'm heading out to do that now.

Edit: Results are here:

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... post146657


Ed

what you need is a "blind hole bearing puller" such as

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/otc-bli ... 14620.aspx

there are less expensive versions availble

terrydowning wrote:You do need different tooling for working with small objects on any lathe. Look at the Penn State Industries pen turning mandrel for the SS. You will also need a 60 degree live center.

Terry has great ideas. However, there is also a PSI Mandrel saver that can be used instead of the 60 degree live center. Having used both, I prefer the saver to the 60 degree.

As far as a mini lathe for pens, unless you are short on space and / or want to set a lathe on a bench or desk, the SS is great for pens. The ability to quickly change speeds is very nice. I did buy a smaller carbide scraper and HSS skew for pens, just for ease in use, but turned a great many with the standard SS lathe tools. One thing that I did with those chisels was after sharpening I honed and honed to nearly a mirror finish. It was one way to reduce chip out especially with hard woods as they get close to the brass tubes.

Have fun

bettyt44720 wrote:what you need is a "blind hole bearing puller" such as

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/otc-blind-hole-bearing-puller-set-4581-p-14620.aspx

there are less expensive versions availble

Seen that pix(and many others like it) before!;) Tried 'making' one, but did so too crudely. I have not given up. Will make a better one some day.(it is not like 'it' is the only one I have!).

There are situations when the dead center is preferable to a live center. When you are spindle turning close to the center, the dead center will not dull the turning chisel if you contact the center. The dead center isn't moving. The SS dead and live centers have the same footprint on the work piece and can be exchanged as needed on a turning.

billmayo wrote:Do anyone have a way to replace the bearing in the live center? I have one that the bearing is really rough. I did not see any way or believe I have any tools to help remove this bearing. Not many things gives me this kind of problem. I had thought of drilling a hole(s) on the back side to punch out the bearing.

Good idea. I used a 3/16" drill bit to drill 2 holes opposite each other in the back side of the head. I used a pin punch to remove te bearing. The replacement bearing was a 32mm X 12mm X 10mm shielded bearing.
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billmayo wrote:Good idea. I used a 3/16" drill bit to drill 2 holes opposite each other in the back side of the head. I used a pin punch to remove te bearing. The replacement bearing was a 32mm X 12mm X 10mm shielded bearing.
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Wise thinking o' great master!

I shall follow thee!:)

May drill three 9/64" holes and walk the punch around.