Shopsmith Forums

prmindartmouth wrote:By the way, (re the "adapter above the drill chuck") if you are looking at the ring pointed at by the red arrow in this photo:
[ATTACH]22052[/ATTACH]
It is not an adapter or part of the chuck. It retains the spindle bearings and is not removed.

Do you wear dark glasses when using that '10' to counteract all that glare?:eek:

You have put MickyD's a lu min i um polishing to shame!(and that is no small feat!!!):)


On a more serious note, a ss chuck may have different shapes and manufacturers, but all have a 5/8" bore and set screw for the spindle in common. Third party stuff is a crap shoot and does usually include 'adapters' to the 5/8" quill shaft.

charlese wrote:Although I can't remember ever disagreeing with beeg before, I do recognize a small ball pein hammer a help in cases like this. The metal to metal vibration from a tap does loosen stuck objects. Same reasoning as an impact hammer. but in this case, a tap with the hammer is enough we don't want to damage the spindle or the chuck.

Try this again after the soaking recommended above.

I agree Chuck! Anything that is short of denting or other deforming is ok and desirable(maybe). Tis the impact g forces thing.

I add a small point re rotating. A more likely location for a burr occuring is near the end of the quill shaft between where the tapered flat stops and the shaft end. This area is the full shaft diameter. Any burr making the diameter larger will jam in the chuck bore.

Pulling the chuck towards the shaft end MAY cause MORE wedging as the burr is pulled further up onto the shaft od.

By rotating first the burr MAY be forced back down into the flat area.

For torque application a TIGHTLY fitting(in the key holes) rod will help. Tightly fitting so the key holes do not get deformed and the rod bent at the hole(camming out).

This endeavor is similar to MickyD's getting the quill advance knob off its shaft. He used three very long bolts and accomplished the tight fit part by using the threads in the hub and jam nuts.

A larger hammering to the rod is acceptable(MickyD had three very strange looking bolts at the end)!

Do not overlook warming the chuck.

Lotsa 'extra' penetrant helps when it breaks loose to prevent 'extra' damage.

All this also applies if a burr is on the full od part of the shaft in the flatted area caused by set screw tightening off the flat.

If it is all rust, ditto.

JPG40504 wrote: I add a small point re rotating. A more likely location for a burr occuring is near the end of the quill shaft between where the tapered flat stops and the shaft end. This area is the full shaft diameter. Any burr making the diameter larger will jam in the chuck bore.

Pulling the chuck towards the shaft end MAY cause MORE wedging as the burr is pulled further up onto the shaft od.

By rotating first the burr MAY be forced back down into the flat area.

Do not overlook warming the chuck.

Lotsa 'extra' penetrant helps when it breaks loose to prevent 'extra' damage.

All this also applies if a burr is on the full od part of the shaft in the flatted area caused by set screw tightening off the flat.

If it is all rust, ditto.

Excellent point, Red! Burrs on the end of the quill shaft can be made by a forceful sliding a chuck onto the shaft while the set screw is turned in too deep.

charlese wrote:Although I can't remember ever disagreeing with beeg before, I do recognize a small ball pein hammer a help in cases like this.

That okay Chuck, disagree with my poorly stated statement. I was just worried that he may start SMACKING it on the end of the chuck. Thereby maybe damaging the bearings.

beeg wrote:That okay Chuck, disagree with my poorly stated statement. I was just worried that he may start SMACKING it on the end of the chuck. Thereby maybe damaging the bearings.

I am not gonna say what I thought he might do with a pipe wrench!:D

JPG, re needing to wear dark glasses, I must fess up that it is not my 10ER, I grabbed the photo off a pic by MKC Tools here:
http://www.mkctools.com/10er51683.htm
He did a beautiful restoration!

Glad to see fordtrax got his chuck off. Was it just rust or was there a burr?

fordtrax wrote:I WD40ed and LiquidWrenched in the allen keyhole. After about an hour it slowly moved and then pulled off. The pix helped since I did not know what was under it. Looks like a Jacobs 33b chuck or or something like that may made in Conn.?

If it has a 5/8" bore, it is likely a 3326A. A 33BA has a 1/2-20 thread.

prmindartmouth wrote:JPG, re needing to wear dark glasses, I must fess up that it is not my 10ER, I grabbed the photo off a pic by MKC Tools here:
http://www.mkctools.com/10er51683.htm
He did a beautiful restoration!

Glad to see fordtrax got his chuck off. Was it just rust or was there a burr?

Yep that is where MickyD(and others) got their inspiration as to what can be done with old iron(and aluminum)!:)

I bought a set of Jacobs Drill Chuck Removal Wedges many years ago to remove the drill chuck from the Shopsmith quill shaft. They paid for themselves many times. I used the 2JT wedges and can be purchased from
http://www.mscdirect.com/FlyerView?page ... s/big-book

prmindartmouth wrote:JPG, re needing to wear dark glasses, I must fess up that it is not my 10ER, I grabbed the photo off a pic by MKC Tools here:
http://www.mkctools.com/10er51683.htm
He did a beautiful restoration!

I've seen it in person. Absolutely gorgeous!