Shopsmith Forums

2centsworth wrote:Here is the picture of the board when cut.

[ATTACH]23566[/ATTACH]

It is amassing to see how it transforms.

Ok that does it. I need to come over and see how that's done!!
Fred

So no need for shields covering the area, no trash bags full of cuttings and sawdust. Pretty simple once you figure it out. I am getting a private lesson from Barry Walter from Huntsville this afternoon. He has the secrets needed to master the a Ringmaster !!!

2centsworth wrote:Here is the picture of the board when cut.

[ATTACH]23566[/ATTACH]

It is amassing to see how it transforms.

I’m assuming that the circumference of the bottom of each ring is equivalent to the top of the next smaller ring.

Zat right?

Well you have gone about as far as I have using the ringmaster. I did a couple of trial containers just to see how it worked. I did use if on another project but those rings didn't have to fit with anything else.

I do wonder how you mounted your base as I can not see a hole in it????

So now you have an expert to give you advice how about getting him to share with us too? Pictures, text, movies, they all work.

I'm interested in any projects you might come up with. I just haven't seemed to have taken the time to figure much of it out yet.

Thanks,

Ed

reible wrote:Well you have gone about as far as I have using the ringmaster. I did a couple of trial containers just to see how it worked. I did use if on another project but those rings didn't have to fit with anything else.

I do wonder how you mounted your base as I can not see a hole in it????

So now you have an expert to give you advice how about getting him to share with us too? Pictures, text, movies, they all work.

I'm interested in any projects you might come up with. I just haven't seemed to have taken the time to figure much of it out yet.

Thanks,

Ed

Good catch......now I can think of at least three ways available to me to mount it without a through hole. Nice job, Jerry and thanks for the inspiration!

SDSSmith wrote:Good catch......now I can think of at least three ways available to me to mount it without a through hole. Nice job, Jerry and thanks for the inspiration!

That is two more than I. What are they?

Now that is truly cool!

Very well done!

Question....

Would it be possible to create a vase with multiple curves like S shapes by making a couple of bowls, flip one, leave out that base, then glue top to top?

Ain't it just cool what can be made with wood?!

Be well,
Ben

reible wrote:Well you have gone about as far as I have using the ringmaster. I did a couple of trial containers just to see how it worked. I did use if on another project but those rings didn't have to fit with anything else.

I do wonder how you mounted your base as I can not see a hole in it????

So now you have an expert to give you advice how about getting him to share with us too? Pictures, text, movies, they all work.

I'm interested in any projects you might come up with. I just haven't seemed to have taken the time to figure much of it out yet.

Thanks,

Ed

I feel your pain and frustration - they make it look simple and if you are an engineer with a masters degree in trigonometry you could sit and calculate the settings. I watched all the videos and shopsmith segments and the excel spreadsheet was when I was ready to sell the darn thing having not even turned it on. I said there has to be a better way. So :

Well having got the ringmaster as a bonus with the purchase of the 10ER I did my homework about it. Several things have changed since it was carried by Shopsmith. First and as you caught you don't have to use the 1/2 inch mount and NO Hole. I used the 3 & 3/4 faceplate (505590) (I have 3 - one on the drill press and two for mounts) with double sided tape. That alone was a huge improvement. No hole no plugging the hole and quicker to mount and remount and finish. You have to have a way to keep pressure on while glueing it up. Thus my new stubby drill press with another 3 & 3/4 inch faceplate set to use as a clamp while drying. Next remount on the faceplate and back on my shorty and you are ready to finish on the lathe. Cabinet scrapers are all that is need to smooth the surface. Now the second biggest improvement is the PAG Precision Angle Guide a $50 buck investment that takes out all of the guess work. Ordered from the woodenpost.com. Used with digital calipers you measure the thickness of your board decide on the angle wanted and look up the angle measurement (provided with the PAG) and set accordingly. Now all of the math and frustration is taken out of why you don't use your Ringmaster. Plans and projects have been updated and your imagination is the only limit. I am just getting started but will be more then happy to bring you along as well.

Anyone else interested ? We could have a Ringmaster Group for the Shopsmith !
I was lucky to come by this piece of equipment and am excited to get it working. The bowl in the pictures took 10 minutes to make once setup. I am practicing on cheap pine but will move up to poplar this week.

If there is anyone who wants to dump your Ringmaster send me a pm.

benush26 wrote:Now that is truly cool!

Very well done!

Question....

Would it be possible to create a vase with multiple curves like S shapes by making a couple of bowls, flip one, leave out that base, then glue top to top?

Ain't it just cool what can be made with wood?!

Be well,
Ben

Absolutely correct and then some. Will be exciting to see what can be made. Upside down / alternated / canister style etc....

idcook wrote:I’m assuming that the circumference of the bottom of each ring is equivalent to the top of the next smaller ring.

Zat right?

That is the million dollar question and what you strive for. If all lines up it fits like a glove.