incense cedar for turning?

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Mon May 05, 2014 1:56 pm

I will print out that PDF. I know I'll refer to it a lot, thanks.

I just read that thread last night and it is informative. He has a nova chuck so workholding is different but a lot of points were new to me.

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Mon May 05, 2014 2:01 pm

Good book on work holding for lathe operations. I refer to my copy often.

http://www.amazon.com/Fixtures-Chucks-Woodturning-Everything-Secure/dp/1565235193/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1399312835&sr=8-4&keywords=woodturning

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Mon May 05, 2014 2:14 pm

That looks useful. I've added it to my wish list on Amazon. One question: does it show ways to get by without expensive chucks to any degree, or is it focused on commercial add one? For that matter, CAN one get pretty far via shop-made workholding setups?

OK, that's two questions. I'll certainly get the book, just not sure if it is something I buy now to help me get by without fancy (expensive) chucks etc. or do I wait and get when I am ready to spend money on workholding so I know what to get and how to make the most of it?

Clearly there are great reasons to get good chucks, I'm just not able to yet and an looking for how to get by until then.

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Mon May 05, 2014 2:37 pm

It does discuss scroll chucks, but the main focus is using your creativity to solve work holding problems for wood lathes.

Keep in mind that the SS lathe has a major limitation in that the spindle is solid 5/8" stock where on a traditional lathe the spindle is typically hollow and a MT of some size is used typically MT 1 and 2 for wood lathes. so for example you can't cut your own MT to use for a dead center. (But you can use 1/2 stock and make one to be held in the drill chuck. or router bit adapter)

Vacuum chuck mounting less of an option as well. Much easier on a traditional lathe. Takes a special adapter for sold spindle lathes.

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Mon May 05, 2014 8:27 pm

Dont know about turning it, BUT very Bad to breath, wear a mask or respirator!!!! Cant find a site that rates wood dust for irritant/allergies/respiratory problems, but I know that cedar is high on the list. A friend makes guitars and uses cedar for bracing and sands it to 2mm on his drum sander, gets a rash if any dust is on his skin.FWIW

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Tue May 06, 2014 9:08 am

I found the site about wood toxicity, a good source.
http://www.hobbywoods.com/wood_toxicity.htm
Heres a better one that includes red and white cedar.
http://www.ubeaut.com.au/badwood.htm

swampgator · Post by **swampgator** » Tue May 06, 2014 11:27 pm

Here's a link to what was published in 1984 in the wonderful book "Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone", pg. 10.

http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/dustco ... /index.htm

I like the detail of the other post just as well.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Wed May 07, 2014 2:16 am

I always thought incense cedar is a pretty darned mild wood. Irritant, possibilities were related to pollen, not wood. I was surprised to see different opinions, but guess it depends on personal allergies. Some references show it is a skin irritant. One of the biggest uses is pencils. Many kids in school chew on these pencils. They taste pecky:o .
Here are several references that differ:

1) incense-Cedar Allergy Info
Although no reports of allergy were found specifically to this genus, cross reactivity among genera of this highly allergenic family is common.

2) Incense-Cedar Species Description
section divider
This species is native to North America north of Mexico.

Allergenicity: Incense-Cedar (Calocedrus decurrens) is a mild allergen.

Pollination: Occurs in following seasons depending on latitude and elevation: Spring.

Gymnosperm: Any plant such as a conifer whose seeds are not enclosed in an ovary.

Tree: A large plant, not exactly defined, but typically over four meters in height, a single trunk which grows in girth with age and branches (which also grow in circumference with age).

3) Lumber[edit]
The wood of Calocedrus is soft, moderately decay-resistant, and with a strong spicy-resinous fragrance. That of C. decurrens is the primary material for wooden pencils, because it is soft and tends to sharpen easily without forming splinters. The two Asian species were (at least in the past) in very high demand for coffin manufacture in China, due to the scent of the wood and its decay resistance. It is likely that past over-exploitation is responsible for their current rarity.

Incense cedar was the preferred hearth board of the Native Peoples of Northern California for lighting fires by friction .

4) Allergies/Toxicity: Although severe reactions are quite uncommon, Incense Cedar has been reported to cause skin irritation. See the articles Wood Allergies and Toxicity and Wood Dust Safety for more information.

5) Here's another source that shows the skin irritation can be fairly strong.
http://www.wood-database.com/wood-artic ... -toxicity/

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Thu May 08, 2014 7:43 pm

I think wood allergies vary a great deal, so a wood listed as a serious problem often won't bother many people. I tried making some hand plane soles out oiron wood, only to break out in crazy itchiness and burning eyes when I tried ripping some by hand. I simply couldn't finish.

I hope I don't ready to the cedar... I brought a bunch home yesterday. They said it was cut to short firewood length. Must have a BIG fireplace! I took the few shorter pieces but also got a couple massively hard to move 3 foot 10-12 inch logs. I have no decent way to cut them up. I'm going to recess a sledge hammer head in one as a small anvil (it's in a short log now, too short for comfortable use). The other will just sit in the yard until/unless I figure something out.

That leaves 5 or so shorter pieces around 8 to 10 inches diameter and 3 pieces already split in half.

Now I completely get why turners get chainsaws.

How would you proceed? I picture making a sled so the blade doesn't get twisted and bandsawing them up removing pith, etc. How large do you find you can handle on the bandsaw?

I just got Bill Mayo's bandsaw bearing upgrade. Note I just have to wait for some chisels to arrive and buy a faceplate.... Oh, and put the Shopsmith back together. It's spread across three rooms at the moment. Got it all polished up and clean but still have to deoxidize the sheaves, etc. At least the aluminum cleaned up nicely:
[ATTACH]24976[/ATTACH]
(More scratches visible in real life)

Thanks for all your help! I will definitely join the local woodhens group.

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Thu May 08, 2014 8:12 pm

Alum looks great in the pics, whatda use?