Shopsmith Forums

&quot wrote:http://www.ebay.com/itm/381003030142?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

thanks. I looked at it but I was told it won't fit.

ibskot wrote:thanks. I looked at it but I was told it won't fit.

I'm inclined to believe you got some bad advice. What won't fit and why?

This guy who is more experienced with SS' s then me said they replacement cited won't allow for room for the Gilmer drive. Is that not correct?

ibskot wrote:This guy who is more experienced with SS' s then me said they replacement cited won't allow for room for the Gilmer drive. Is that not correct?

I can't respond with any authority since I have never worked on a Gilmer system but that headstock looks (to me) to be one that originally housed a Gilmer drive.

You'll have to wait for someone else to respond to get confirmation (one way or the other). BTW, the link to which you refer was put there by an individual ("Galloping Ghost") who has Gilmer drives.


PS You do need a motor pan that is not shown.

That item is a "B" headstock casting. ALL the bores are the same as ALL other versions "A,C" except for the switch and access hole. The speed control mounting hole shape does vary(a non significant detail).

Later "C" castings have a second screw/washer mount for securing the new version of the idler shaft bearing.

As such the Gilmer version of internal parts will fit/work quite nicely. The only 'extra' hardware needed is the two(identical) bearing retaining clips that you should/may already have. They mount to the 'squeeze' screw that broke the finger. If you do not have the clips, that can be worked around.

You have indeed been misinformed by I assume the seller!

Go fer it! The $ is quite attractive. A couple of caveats, the only additional hardware included are the setscrews, a tinnerman clip and a potential more meaningful caveat is the sleeve still in the quill shaft bore(it may be seized). If your 'broken' ear is on a "B" casting, you will have all the 'missing' hardware. If not the mother ship has.


Beware of 'snipers'.

Thanksl the help. How do I tell if I have a B casting on my machine?

On another note....I got everything today. The machine is as smooth as i imagine possible. The paint is kinda crusty but he included another drivebelt and a bunch if accessories and SPT's.

I am rethinking the double header idea. Leaning toward a mini mark.

ibskot wrote:Thanksl the help. How do I tell if I have a B casting on my machine?

On another note....I got everything today. The machine is as smooth as i imagine possible. The paint is kinda crusty but he included another drivebelt and a bunch if accessories and SPT's.

I am rethinking the double header idea. Leaning toward a mini mark.

A Mini is fine if you know exactly what you want to do with it. Don't cut the tubes until you believe you know. Yes, if you go too short you can always buy another set of tubes and start all over.

That was not an option for me. I am too frugal.

ibskot wrote:Thanksl the help. How do I tell if I have a B casting on my machine?

On another note....I got everything today. The machine is as smooth as i imagine possible. The paint is kinda crusty but he included another drivebelt and a bunch if accessories and SPT's.

I am rethinking the double header idea. Leaning toward a mini mark.

This might help.

ibskot wrote:Thanksl the help. How do I tell if I have a B casting on my machine?

On another note....I got everything today. The machine is as smooth as i imagine possible. The paint is kinda crusty but he included another drivebelt and a bunch if accessories and SPT's.

I am rethinking the double header idea. Leaning toward a mini mark.

IIUC, it matters not. Whatever it is, the "B" will replace it.

More "History".
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=8938&highlight=casting