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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 9:55 am
by ibskot
That poly v drive would have been a replacement? I didn't think they did that in 1954. Is that drive better then the Gilmer drive?
Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:31 pm
by JPG
ibskot wrote:That poly v drive would have been a replacement? I didn't think they did that in 1954. Is that drive better then the Gilmer drive?
'They' didn't. Somebody else upgraded it after 1962. It can still be done($$$).
IMHO poly-v is an improvement, but the Gilmer works well as is.
Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:36 pm
by ibskot
" wrote:'They' didn't. Somebody else upgraded it after 1962. It can still be done($$$).
IMHO poly-v is an improvement, but the Gilmer works well as is.
Well, if they improved that, maybe they upgraded to a double bearing quill...need to check.
Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:38 pm
by JPG
ibskot wrote:Well, if they improved that, maybe they upgraded to a double bearing quill...need to check.
Seriously doubt that.
Too many things done 'intentionally' to disguise its origin.
Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 3:39 pm
by dusty
The two-bearing quill buys you NOTHING (except a new quill) unless you are experiencing excessive runout!!
Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 1:16 am
by ibskot
Well, if I go by the instructions that Nick Engler gave to determine 1 versus 2 bearing quill it has a 2 bearing quill. I am a bit suprised as I compared it to my 83 that my uncle gave me and it does too even though the serial number starts with 15 not 19. I HIGHLY doubt my uncle or grandfather (the one who actually used it) would have upgraded. FWIW, my grandfather's machine's quill spins great and free. The Frankensmith's does turn but not spin freely. Tomorrow I will check the one with the broken casting.
Confused and befuddled.
Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 1:26 am
by "Wild Bad Bob"
dusty wrote:The two-bearing quill buys you NOTHING (except a new quill) unless you are experiencing excessive run out!!
Dusty, please explain, I was/am under the impression it was better and about a .001 run out compared to the single which had up to .005 run out.
I am not questioning you, just what I have read. I know you have many experiences with this.
Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 1:31 am
by "Wild Bad Bob"
ibskot wrote:Well, if I go by the instructions that Nick Engler gave to determine 1 versus 2 bearing quill it has a 2 bearing quill. I am a bit suprised as I compared it to my 83 that my uncle gave me and it does too even though the serial number starts with 15 not 19. I HIGHLY doubt my uncle or grandfather (the one who actually used it) would have upgraded. FWIW, my grandfather's machine's quill spins great and free. The Frankensmith's does turn but not spin freely. Tomorrow I will check the one with the broken casting.
Confused and befuddled.
Okay, with the belts on, nothing spins by hand, they just turn, please ex plane more please.
Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 5:03 am
by ibskot
Bob.... with the quill in my hand, out of the machine, is what I meant. Sorry for confusion.
Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 10:00 am
by JPG
ibskot wrote:Bob.... with the quill in my hand, out of the machine, is what I meant. Sorry for confusion.
A single bearing quill out of the machine will be grossly imbalanced due to lack of support of the long splined shaft. Held vertically it 'might' spin easier.
FWIW excessive spinning is a sign of dry/loose bearings.
A way to determine if a single bearing quill is to hold it splined shaft down. If the 'top hat' washer falls out, it is a single bearing. If the top hat is 'missing' , the splined shaft will wobble greatly.
The top hat washer is there to hold the shaft near center for insertion into the headstock.