Shopsmith Forums

As cheap as I am I take another perspective on this. If you can live with the price and it is what you want go buy the damn thing... It looks good and the seller did say "OBO". If you want it, make an offer.
With today's fuel prices even cheap-skates like me have to rethink old gut reactions. You could spend $150 and several days just running around looking at cheaper units that are just crap to save a hundred bucks, and still not have one. If this one is as good as it looks the only thing that matters about the price is if "YOU" feel it is worth it to you. It doesn't matter what someone else has paid or would pay, they are not going to be working in your shop are they.
As far as the 8" blade (won't 10's actually take a 9"? I have not really checked on my 10-ER), I have used my table-saw blade at full depth of cut but not really that often. And there are work-arounds to about any situation. Dare I use the words "hand tools"... If cutting from both sides still won't reach the middle, grab a hand saw and finish the cut in about 15 seconds. It makes a huge difference whether you plan to use it for timber framing or for building bird houses.
My only other advice would be to go buy one good blade.


.

I am with the go buy it crowd. Yes, you can find them cheaper, but as it has been pointed out, the drill press is worth what the guy is asking. You will probably get it for 200 or maybe a bit less, but if he is firm on the asking price, it works as good as it looks, go get it. I promise you, you will not be disappointed in the machine.

I use mine almost every day (and I don't even know what I am doing )....

Dick

robinson46176 wrote:As cheap as I am I take another perspective on this. If you can live with the price and it is what you want go buy the damn thing... It looks good and the seller did say "OBO". If you want it, make an offer.
With today's fuel prices even cheap-skates like me have to rethink old gut reactions. You could spend $150 and several days just running around looking at cheaper units that are just crap to save a hundred bucks, and still not have one. If this one is as good as it looks the only thing that matters about the price is if "YOU" feel it is worth it to you. It doesn't matter what someone else has paid or would pay, they are not going to be working in your shop are they.
As far as the 8" blade (won't 10's actually take a 9"? I have not really checked on my 10-ER), I have used my table-saw blade at full depth of cut but not really that often. And there are work-arounds to about any situation. Dare I use the words "hand tools"... If cutting from both sides still won't reach the middle, grab a hand saw and finish the cut in about 15 seconds. It makes a huge difference whether you plan to use it for timber framing or for building bird houses.
My only other advice would be to go buy one good blade.


.

I also agree go buy it if it looks like it will work for you. And you can put a larger blade on a 10, you just won't be able to lower the table to take advantage of it.

ChrisNeilan wrote:I also agree go buy it if it looks like it will work for you. And you can put a larger blade on a 10, you just won't be able to lower the table to take advantage of it.

But you will cut the insert/table if lowered too far.

JPG wrote:But you will cut the insert/table if lowered too far.

Kinda my point!:D

JPG wrote:But you will cut the insert/table if lowered too far.

That is why you need a good blade.

A couple of stop collars on the table post should keep it out of the blade.

I have an old Rockwell 8" tablesaw that I sometimes use for cuts where I might be making a number of parts needing several cuts each for something and I want to leave several machines sat-up undisturbed until I get all of the parts made. I found that for me maybe 98% of the time on that saw a common 7 1/4" blade of decent quality (not the $1.98 special) worked just fine. A good carbide blade that small powered by that 3/4 HP motor doesn't slow down much even in hard stuff.

Actually the cheap carbide blades usually cut pretty good but that saw has no upper guard and if I was using a dime-store carbide blade I would keep worrying about it slinging a tooth tip.


.

Just do not ask me why there is a saw kerf under my Goldie table!:D

One does not plan on doing that sort of thing. When it does, you are concentrating on the job, not the limits of the machine.

The machine design prevents that sort of thing . . . until thee deviates from the design intent!:rolleyes:

JPG wrote:But you will cut the insert/table if lowered too far.

Guys, you get a SHALLOWER cut, with a 10 inch blade, on a machine designed to use an 8 inch blade.

However, if you want to do the old MkVII trick, and put an extra slot on the left side of the table... But then, you've STILL got that tiny table.

steve

skou wrote:Guys, you get a SHALLOWER cut, with a 10 inch blade, on a machine designed to use an 8 inch blade. Not intuitively obvious, but thee is absolutely correct!!! I did not realize that! Thanks!!!

However, if you want to do the old MkVII trick, and put an extra slot on the left side of the table... But then, you've STILL got that tiny table.

steve

Actually that started with the Mark 5. But you can still position the blade just off the table.:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

JPG wrote:Actually that started with the Mark 5. But you can still position the blade just off the table.:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

I thought that some Mk5s had that feature, but I KNEW the MKVII did.

Oh, the 10 inch blade rule, came from Skip. I am just passing it on.

steve