Re: sharpening lathe chisels
Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 2:51 pm
I have a couple of photos showing a tool with the burr on the end and also of that same chisel with the burr removed and the cutting edge honed. Problem is that they were taken from my TV screen and are probably copyrighted so I won't post them here. Go to you tube and look for Woodturning Workshop with Tim Yoder and find the segment on sharpening with Alan Lacer.
When a cutting edge is honed the burr is, of course, removed and the resulting cutting edge will actually last longer. Why? The burr is made up primarily of the particles of steel from the grinding process and particles from the grinding wheel also. As soon as the burr contacts the stock during a cut the burr is virtually gone. It has very loose structure and is fragile.
With a honed edge and proper technique the stock will be trying to push the cutting edge back into the body of the tool and the tool supports the edge. This results in the edge maintaining it's sharpness longer.
Another advantage is that all that is required to resharpen the tool is a light honing with a credit card sized diamond plate. A tool can be re honed 10 or 15 times before you have to go back to the grinder. As a result much less steel is removed by grinding giving the tools longer life.
You will have re sharpen the tools during a turning session and any of the lathe mounted systems will require breaking down the lathe setup to sharpen.
I have been using a lo speed grinder (Rikon) with the Oneway sharpening guide and it is performing very well. It leaves a hollow grind on the bevel of the tool which makes honing much easier. A similar guide is available from Penn State Industries. http://www.pennstateind.com
Also check the oneway manufacturing site in Canada and watch the DVD of their sharpening guide. https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLMF ... bfoe0h9NZA
Hope some of this diatribe helps someone or multiple someones.
Bill V
When a cutting edge is honed the burr is, of course, removed and the resulting cutting edge will actually last longer. Why? The burr is made up primarily of the particles of steel from the grinding process and particles from the grinding wheel also. As soon as the burr contacts the stock during a cut the burr is virtually gone. It has very loose structure and is fragile.
With a honed edge and proper technique the stock will be trying to push the cutting edge back into the body of the tool and the tool supports the edge. This results in the edge maintaining it's sharpness longer.
Another advantage is that all that is required to resharpen the tool is a light honing with a credit card sized diamond plate. A tool can be re honed 10 or 15 times before you have to go back to the grinder. As a result much less steel is removed by grinding giving the tools longer life.
You will have re sharpen the tools during a turning session and any of the lathe mounted systems will require breaking down the lathe setup to sharpen.
I have been using a lo speed grinder (Rikon) with the Oneway sharpening guide and it is performing very well. It leaves a hollow grind on the bevel of the tool which makes honing much easier. A similar guide is available from Penn State Industries. http://www.pennstateind.com
Also check the oneway manufacturing site in Canada and watch the DVD of their sharpening guide. https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLMF ... bfoe0h9NZA
Hope some of this diatribe helps someone or multiple someones.
Bill V