Shopsmith Forums

How much tension? I stated before that my tension would be somewhere near the 3/4" mark if there were one. Significantly above the 1/2" mark.

Thanks for the added tip, reible. I'm about to jump back on it and see if I can get it to resaw, and I'll add that to the list of adjustments to make.

lilgodwin wrote:How much tension? I stated before that my tension would be somewhere near the 3/4" mark if there were one. Significantly above the 1/2" mark.

Thanks for the added tip, reible. I'm about to jump back on it and see if I can get it to resaw, and I'll add that to the list of adjustments to make.

Make sure that blade is really sharp! Band saw blades will cut through thin stock even if not super sharp. But when resawing it is really important to be using a sharp blade.

Skizzity wrote:I don't know how much this matters but have you adjusted your fence to account for blade "drift"?

I forgot to respond to this, but how do you account for drift? I'm not sure what that means. There shouldn't be any drift, right?

lilgodwin wrote:

Skizzity wrote:I don't know how much this matters but have you adjusted your fence to account for blade "drift"?

I forgot to respond to this, but how do you account for drift? I'm not sure what that means. There shouldn't be any drift, right?

https://youtu.be/19KUOXatLPY

Here are a few thoughts.

First you need to have a tuned up band saw. The saw has to be properly maintained.

Re-sawing is not cutting curves. It takes at least a 1/2" blade. The SS band saw will accept a 5/8" blade BTW.

You need a sharp blade. Let me say this again. You need a sharp blade. Not one of unknown vintage that you got with the band saw you bought or one that you have had for years.

Mike Young gave a demonstration at the latest Salt Lake traveling academy back in November. He is the one that cuts those little stand up flowers on the band saw out of 2 X 2 stock in less than 30 seconds. He said he had been using the same BS blade for years. He finally changed the blade and he could not believe the difference. He kept the old blade and put it on the BS in the demo and let us cut a piece of wood. Then he put on a new blade and the difference was night and day.

Having said that, there are other things that can be done.

First is Doug Reeds video on compensating for blade drift. That procedure is also in the SS manual. Yes there are companies that sell saws and blades that say this is not necessary. I don't know how true that is but in my experience you always have to account for some blade drift. If you do what Doug says for the SS band saw you will get perfect results.

Another thing is the Carter roller guides for the SS band saw. Hands down!

They are selling there bearing guides, but a good info on set up.
Watch this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

I'd call this a success! Thanks everyone! The drift was so minor, I didn't want to waste the wood. Started from the other side and met it almost dead on.

I changed blades, kept the same tension (about 1.5 turns past 1/2"), shaped the guide blocks, and brought them forward a lot.

Not sure if this is a good thing, or if it's normal, but the back of the blade, where the wield is, is slightly concaved, and I found out that's where the blade would jump the upper bearings slightly. To help compensate, I brought the right guide block in some, pretty much touching the blade to keep it from jumping. Thoughts?


Unrelated question. I'm finding that my tables and lathe guide aren't sliding into the carriage...at all. I don't feel like I can get them in there whatsoever. Common problem and fix?

For less $ then bearing guides get cool block guides, they are a graphite material that lubes the sides of the blade, can set them tighter BEHIND THE GULLETS, better then the steel ones, but do wear faster.

I have a rather cheap 1/2" Olson blade that I use for resawing. I bought it because I needed it right now, and it was in stock locally. It always cut pretty decently, but it originally made an annoying Whump ... Whump ... Whump noise. (I use Cool Blocks, and set them up with only a couple thou of clearance from the blade.). One day when I had the blade off, I noticed a slight bend at the weld, just like you described. So I applied some judicuous thumb pressure to straighten it out, and polished the weld a bit with some sandpaper. Afterward, it cut a bit smoother, and the Whump Whump was completely gone.

Has anyone used the ceramic guide blocks? If so, any problems with them?