Shopsmith Forums

I have always enjoyed this Japanese woodworking tool DIY kind of channel on YT. Interesting to see the solutions that he comes up with to solve shop challenges or to do a given task more economically in the shop. Palm routers have become ubiquitous and are generally inexpensive. IF you have a 3D printer or access to one, here is one option to use your palm router from your shop to do a nearly Festool Domino equivalent function. Almost as fast as using the Festool Domino for A LOT less money. Of course, if speed is not your primary concern, any router can be used with a jig to make loose tenon mortises, but you can also use doweling or make full M&T joints instead.

RF Guy,

I got around to watching this video this morning, also a long time subscriber and impressed by his works. After the first watch, the only thing I'd like to see, and I could easily mod the files myself, are edge alignment stops on the sides; a hole for another heat insert plus a "flag" attached with a knob bolt should do the trick. I may give this a go as I now have a good quality 3D printer, the Snapmaker U1, that I can get reliable prints from (compared to not so accurate on the older printers I've had). Looks like the plans are around $10, quick guess that the hardware may run around $50, already have a Makita router, so this would at worst be a fairly inexpensive adventure and at best a good enough for me portable alternative to the PantoRouter.

I think I've figured out how to use my PantoRouter for the loose tenons on my upcoming slab projects. Rather than supporting the slabs on the PR's table, my plan is to support them across a pair of up/down tables I have with the PR on something shorter between the two tables. Then lower the tables so the slab just touches the PR's table. I might also need a sheet of melamine particle board beneath the slab to allow me to clamp the slab in place, or maybe a piece of plywood large enough to clamp to and bolted to the PR's table would work better. This would allow me to use 1/2" or even larger bits as well as making deeper and wider mortises in the slabs.

Roy,

Sounds good. Thanks and please share in the future if you do build this for your Makita palm router. Would be interesting to know your results with it. Also glad to hear you are able to work out a way to make use of your PR for this in the meantime.

RF Guy,

I bought his plans a couple days ago. They're a bit odd to access as he has a downloadable file that contains the .STEP (rather than STL) files, but then instructions and at least one other model file (for a Dewalt router) are on a web site. No problems with language as there's a very good English version that I was defaulted to. The slicer I use can take the .STEP files directly, and having those files allows me to more easily modify the files as desired.

I've ordered most of the parts, other than heat inserts, and with the exception of the linear bearings, I will have enough for at least two if I so desired. I also ordered a heat set insert tool that comes with a bunch of inserts, so waiting on those to see if any match the BOM. I don't plan to build the base assembly, and without those parts it comes in around 1.25 KGs of filament.

I'll post pics if/when I complete it.