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Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2009 9:09 pm
by charlese
John (flashbacpt) and Tom_k/mo suggested the two systems I have used.
John's 'V' jig will hold these pieces perpendicular to a sanding disk if you also insert a couple of small wedges into the jig toward the narrower side of the object.
Tom's lathe system will works very well!
Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 1:57 am
by rdewinter
Tom,
Your lather suggestion is excellent and very creative. Thank you. I have a new Barracuda 3 T/N arriving on Monday and I will give it a try. Thanks again.
Bob
Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 8:09 am
by JPG
rdewinter wrote:Tom,
Your lather suggestion is excellent and very creative. Thank you. I have a new Barracuda 3 T/N arriving on Monday and I will give it a try. Thanks again.
Bob
Let us know how well it works on the tapered one.
Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 9:01 am
by dickg1
This is an interesting problem! I thought of a few methods I would use (including the longest whisker from a grey mouse, but that's a different story) and finally decided on a fairly simple one (IMHO).
I would use a micrometer (less than $20 at Sears, etc) to measure the fattest part, then measure near the end I want to flatten, take one half of the difference and, using scrap (shimmed as necessary), make a support for the small end and trim away.
Dick
Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 9:29 am
by JPG
dickg1 wrote:This is an interesting problem! I thought of a few methods I would use (including the longest whisker from a grey mouse, but that's a different story) and finally decided on a fairly simple one (IMHO).
I would use a micrometer (less than $20 at Sears, etc) to measure the fattest part, then measure near the end I want to flatten, take one half of the difference and, using scrap (shimmed as necessary), make a support for the small end and trim away.
Dick
I still think my mating hole in a block is the way to do it(tapered stopper).
Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 10:53 am
by beeg
Drill a hole in a piece of scrap board. So that the stopper just protrudes from the back side and sand it.
Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 11:37 am
by dickg1
beeg wrote:Drill a hole in a piece of scrap board. So that the stopper just protrudes from the back side and sand it.
Bob,
I gave this some thought after you mentioned it. How do you compensate for the differing diameters of the pieces at the widest and the narrowest points and insure that the center line is parallel to the working surface?
Dick
Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 12:06 pm
by beeg
Wood knot care about the narrowest point. The hole wood have to be sized for the point on the stopper at the thickness of the board. More or less like using a jam chuck on a lathe. Use a piece of paper in the hole, so that the stopper fits tight. Then by eye, line up the stopper vertically. Then sand it down, like ya wood a screw hole plug.
Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 4:06 pm
by JPG
JPG40504 wrote:The conical shaped piece is the most difficult to do.
. . .
The conical shaped piece can be cut by turning(internal) a square shaped jig with a matching taper(inside). The jig is then cut off so that the workpiece will extend through it to allow access by the blade.
. . .
MORE COMPLICATED THAN 'JUST A HOLE'
Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 4:32 pm
by beeg
JPG40504 wrote:MORE COMPLICATED THAN 'JUST A HOLE'
I do knot think so.