Yes, using the rip fence and miter gauge in tandem is a well known NO-NO. ..........
There shall be some modifications made to my outfeed table as a result of this. It shall be revised so that it can be attached without pulling the tubes from the outfeed rail. An easy drop on interface is required.
We Quality Assurance Managers LOVE root cause analysis and permanent corrective action when problems are discovered!!!! Good, smart corrective action plan. Thanks dusty...
reible wrote:
The wood should not be pulled back over the running blade Ed
This has been an important Safety Issue thread...thanks to all posters.
On my Tenon Master I placed a piece of masking tape and used a magic marker to write on it, in block letters, the admonition "DO NOT PULL BACK." Did this years ago when I first got the TM, but my memory is that the instruction sheets that came with the TM included the advice. The temptation to slide the workpiece back after the cut is great, but the penalty for doing so can be severe. Pushing the wood all the way through and off the outfeed end of the table seems to take so much time and I think thats why it feels more "efficient" to pull the work back and position it for the next cut. But it really doesn't add much time to the operation and in any event, its time well spent.
Ed
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
Dusty
I don't know if it is an optical illusion or not but it appears the hold down on the miter gauge is slanted toward the fence. I would think that would push the board toward the fence and the minute the board cleared the stop block it would slide slightly toward it thus catching on the stop block when pulled back.
I would think if everything was setup correctly, and the wood was clamped to be immovable on the miter guage you could safely pull the board back over the blade no problem.
However to insure total safety I would agree don't pull the wood back.
Ed in Tampa wrote:Dusty
I don't know if it is an optical illusion or not but it appears the hold down on the miter gauge is slanted toward the fence. I would think that would push the board toward the fence and the minute the board cleared the stop block it would slide slightly toward it thus catching on the stop block when pulled back.
I would think if everything was setup correctly, and the wood was clamped to be immovable on the miter guage you could safely pull the board back over the blade no problem.
However to insure total safety I would agree don't pull the wood back.
I see what you are referring to but the hold down on the miter gauge is not the cause. The picture that you are looking at is "staged" for the camera and the hold down is overly lose.
I would like to lay this one off on the equipment but that is not the cause. This was definitely operator induced.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
dusty wrote:I would like to lay this one off on the equipment but that is not the cause. This was definitely operator induced.
I simply cannot imagine operator error occurring, unless of course the machine was in use...
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
I felt that one of the reasons for why I had this problem was because I had not installed the out feed table. I had a personal excuse for that but I've eliminated that excuse from discussion.
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Now the hooks (used to be holes) just drop down on the tube that runs through the rail (outfeed side) of the Main Table.
I'll use this for a short while and then I am going to rebuild my outfeed table. It needs to be wider so that it will span two floating tables and the main table. I am thinking about making it just a bit shallower (infeed to outfeed dimension).
Comments will be greatly appreciated (especially regarding size).
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"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I am assuming the 'stop' is a dusty 'original'. I notice what look like t-nuts on the face of the stop. What is on the opposite side? If bolts, how are they accessed to adjust, or are they jam nutted and adjusted while off the fence? Are there sliding t-bar 'nuts' on the end facing the fence side slot?
How DOES it get clamped to the fence??????????
Those who claim to have NEVER pulled back through the still rotating blade are either suffering from a short memory, afraid of their own shadow, or just plain lying!:D Hazardous actions are 'ok' as long as recognized and adequate measures taken!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
While feeling smug re need to ALWAYS NOT pull the workpiece back and to ALWAYS remove the workpiece, consider these additional facts. The board was very wide(long dado cut) which requires reaching over the table(and that rotating flesh shredder) to do so! Dusty's outfeed support is an adequate alternative. Without it a second dangerous condition exists. You may need to walk around the end to pick it up, but that is the 'price' of being safer!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:I am assuming the 'stop' is a dusty 'original'. I notice what look like t-nuts on the face of the stop. What is on the opposite side? If bolts, how are they accessed to adjust, or are they jam nutted and adjusted while off the fence? Are there sliding t-bar 'nuts' on the end facing the fence side slot?
How DOES it get clamped to the fence??????????
Those who claim to have NEVER pulled back through the still rotating blade are either suffering from a short memory, afraid of their own shadow, or just plain lying!:D Hazardous actions are 'ok' as long as recognized and adequate measures taken!
It does not clamp to the fence. The hook is the only thing working other than gravity.
The pictures associated with post #3 in the following thread will (I think) answer all your other questions. No, there is one other. Those are not t-nuts they are threaded inserts (almost the same thing).
JPG40504 wrote:
Those who claim to have NEVER pulled back through the still rotating blade are either suffering from a short memory, afraid of their own shadow, or just plain lying!:D Hazardous actions are 'ok' as long as recognized and adequate measures taken!
I will have to agree with you, I am sure just about everyone has done it at least once.
