Page 2 of 2

Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 3:09 pm
by charlese
Ed in Tampa wrote:...
I think the biggest concern is the Radial Arm if you use a positive hook angle blade the blade tends to climb. If you ever had a Radial arm saw climb on you it is scarey. The blade sort of jumps atop the wood instead of cutting through it come rushing towards you. ...
Haven't had a problem with climb since I went to a negative hook angle blade. While RAS climbing is scarey it is far less scarey and dangerous than a table saw kickback.

Yep! that'll work! However the climbing issue is why - [when I had a RAS as my only power saw (about 30 years)] - I made it a practice to push the saw through the wood rather than pull the saw toward me. Fence adjustments? All the time!

Never did get smart enough to look for of get a negative hook blade:o .

Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 4:48 pm
by JPG
Methinks the main culprit in the ras 'climbing' is NOT due to blade hook, or push rather than pull, but rather in the lack of a rigidity between the 'table' and the arm.

Negative hook would decrease the tendency to climb.

I shudder to think of pushing rather than pulling as the blade is trying to lift the workpiece.

Not having actually experienced the climb, my 'opinion' may be suspect. However considering my past aggressive cutting on large workpieces(2x10...) I think if it was going to happen, it would have!

Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 6:23 pm
by Ed in Tampa
charlese wrote:Yep! that'll work! However the climbing issue is why - [when I had a RAS as my only power saw (about 30 years)] - I made it a practice to push the saw through the wood rather than pull the saw toward me. Fence adjustments? All the time!

Never did get smart enough to look for of get a negative hook blade:o .
Pushing a RAS into the wood is asking for trouble. The blade will lift the wood and pitch it back over the fence.

Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 6:26 pm
by Ed in Tampa
JPG40504 wrote:Methinks the main culprit in the ras 'climbing' is NOT due to blade hook, or push rather than pull, but rather in the lack of a rigidity between the 'table' and the arm.

Negative hook would decrease the tendency to climb.

I shudder to think of pushing rather than pulling as the blade is trying to lift the workpiece.

Not having actually experienced the climb, my 'opinion' may be suspect. However considering my past aggressive cutting on large workpieces(2x10...) I think if it was going to happen, it would have!
If you haven't experienced the climb on RAS then you are fortunate.
The last Sears RAS I saw had a cable brake to prevent the saw from walking forward. Not sure how effective it was.

For me negative hook angle took care of the problem but how many people using a RAS looks for a negative hook angle blade most go to Sears and buy whatever is hanging on the hook. Usually those blades have a 15 to 20 degree hook.

Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 6:30 pm
by paulrussell
Ed in Tampa wrote:If you haven't experienced the climb on RAS then you are fortunate.
The last Sears RAS I saw had a cable brake to prevent the saw from walking forward. Not sure how effective it was.

For me negative hook angle took care of the problem but how many people using a RAS looks for a negative hook angle blade most go to Sears and buy whatever is hanging on the hook. Usually those blades have a 15 to 20 degree hook.
Even if it weren't for Shopsmith support and the good company here, this forum is a potential lifesaver. I would never have known this, and sure as heck the kid at Home Depot, Sears, or Lowes wouldn't have a clue. To a degree I'm glad I'm getting my machine in bits and pieces because it gives me plenty of time to surf the forum, watch the Sawdust Sessions, and read the manuals.

Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 10:23 pm
by charlese
Ed in Tampa wrote:Pushing a RAS into the wood is asking for trouble. The blade will lift the wood and pitch it back over the fence.

I can understand the concern, but never had that problem.

Climbing is not an exact adjective to describe what happened to me during pull strokes. Actually it was more of a push of the motor/saw toward my arm. Sometimes a motor stall!

Guess it was easier for me to hold the wood down than to deal with the saw that wanted to push toward my hand. In fact, I think I remember the manual said it was a standard method to push the saw toward the fence (away from the user). This is the same sawing action you have when ripping with the RAS. Although there was an anti kick back arm, I always used a hold-down attached to the fence in front of the saw, when ripping.

Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 10:54 pm
by JPG
Ed in Tampa wrote:If you haven't experienced the climb on RAS then you are fortunate.
. . . .
Perhaps I have not experienced it since the only blade that has ever been on it is the one that came with it, and it has never been sharpened(nor used much lately)!

Posted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 12:00 am
by heathicus
I'm itching for a RAS. One of these days... I've been scouring Craig's List and there are plenty there, but for more than I want to pay and further than I want to drive to get it.