Headstock Overheating

[billmayo]

Yes, the idler shaft even with the hub mounted can get quite hot. I have used the below Poly-V belt alignment to help lower the temp on some headstocks.

I place the sanding disk on the quill and turn it in the same direction as the motor turns the quill. I find that I first install the Poly-V belt with 2 empty grooves on each side of the Drive Sleeve Pulley. Then install the idler shaft and eccentric bushing. I rotate the Poly-V or Gilmer belt for a few complete turns before checking for alignment. I use a #8 body washer (drilled for a #10 screw) on the screw that stops the eccentric bushing from extending past the back of the headstock casing when turning the speed control handle to SLOW. The factory washer can allow the idler shaft to move past the end of the bushing. I seat the idler bearing and eccentric bushing against the body washer and lightly seat the eccentric bushing set screw. Then I take slack out of the belt by rotating the eccentric bushing. I stand above the headstock and sighting down the edge of the Poly-V belt to the idler shaft pulley. The belt should be flat (straight down) against the idler shaft pulley as it starts or comes off the idler shaft pulley. If there is a bulge on the side of the belt as it clears the pulleys then the pulleys are not in a straight line. If the idler shaft pulley appears to be more toward the end of the headstock casing, I will remove the eccentric bushing and idler shaft so I can move the belt one groove toward the back of the drive sleeve pulley leaving 3 grooves showing at the front of the drive sleeve pulley. I reinstall the idler shaft and eccentric bushing and check alignment again. I can do this task many times faster than I can describe it.

[dusty]

I already answered this question somewhere other than where it was asked. Oh well. Yes the lower hub, after operating about two minutes at high speed gets too hot to grasp a hold of. I could barely touch it without pulling away.

[tryinhard]

Dusty -- thanks for the reply.

About Ed's use of MMO: I read on one of the links about MMO that is part 3Weight (3W) oil, some solvent/penetrant and something to make it smell nice. This site recommended using it in the automobile gas tank to let the solvent properties clean out the fuel injectors and any deposits on the valves and cylinder heads. Ed suggests using it (I believe) on the idler shaft bearing after running the machine to get it hot. If the idler shaft bearing is a sealed bearing, would the solvent properties of the MMO lead to a breakdown of the sealing mechanism for the sealed bearing?

Thanks, Mike

[Ed in Tampa]

Dusty -- thanks for the reply.

About Ed's use of MMO: I read on one of the links about MMO that is part 3Weight (3W) oil, some solvent/penetrant and something to make it smell nice. This site recommended using it in the automobile gas tank to let the solvent properties clean out the fuel injectors and any deposits on the valves and cylinder heads. Ed suggests using it (I believe) on the idler shaft bearing after running the machine to get it hot. If the idler shaft bearing is a sealed bearing, would the solvent properties of the MMO lead to a breakdown of the sealing mechanism for the sealed bearing?

Thanks, Mike

It might Mike but I have been doing this since I discovered Marvel Mystery Oil back in the late 80's and so far no problem with my bearings.
I have a theory on sealed bearings

Sealed bearings keep big pieces of junk out but they aren't totally sealed. Depending on manufacture the size of the junk they keep out may be molecular in size or as large as a log.

The thing that scares me the most about my idea is whether the Mystery Oil has enough lube to prevent bearing failure. That is why I always start with Miracle oil followed by a mixture of Miracle oil and I think 30 weight oil.

I have another theory
I believe my method works as well as it does because I put the oil on the hot bearings. I believe as the bearings cool the oil is drawn into the bearing. Heat expands cold contracts.

I have played with this and while I never set up a formal test I can tell you my heatstock runs much cooler when the bearings have been exposed to my fix.

Ps I use it on both the shafts sticking out the upper side of the headstock when the SS is rotated to drill press mode.

[JPG]

. . .



I have played with this and while I never set up a formal test I can tell you my heatstock runs much cooler when the bearings have been exposed to my fix.

. . .

Hmmmm! Fruedian slip?????:D

[Ed in Tampa]

Hmmmm! Fruedian slip?????:D

Huh???
I guess I'm not fruedian enough to see the slip!

[mickyd]

It might Mike but I have been doing this since I discovered Marvel Mystery Oil ......

I have played with this and while I never set up a formal test I can tell you my heatstock runs much cooler when the bearings have been exposed to my fix. ......

Clue above Ed.

[JPG]

Huh???
I guess I'm not fruedian enough to see the slip!

"heatstock]"

P.S. Sorry Mike I did not read your post b4 posting this.

[milindkhurd]

Mike, I have the same problem on my mark v 510, after a recent overhaul (had taken out the sheeves and speed control mech, cleaned, lubricated and reassembled) the control sheeve assembly started to heat up which eventually heats the complete headstock. I do not see or hear anything wrong. Everything seems normal. Did you find the problem and how did you fix it? Please let us know.

Thanks,
MK

[ChrisNeilan]

This was a post from nine years ago. I have not seem him post in a long time...