CA glue doing the job of clamps?
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foxtrapper
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- JPG
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I have my doubts about this! I have not had much luck with CA and wood when pressure need be tolerated. The glueing of the ends does little to apply pressure to the center.
I'll be stubborn and stick with clamps. I do not even think much of gorilla glue. I stick(pun intended) with titebond or casein glues.
I'll be stubborn and stick with clamps. I do not even think much of gorilla glue. I stick(pun intended) with titebond or casein glues.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I don't like CA or any fast set glue for intrasia. Often, even after careful dry fitting, I will glue a piece to find that I am not completely satisfied with the total presentation (fit, height, color, grain, etc.). With Titebond II I can pull the piece away, clean the area with water, make changes and try again.
Gary Kalyn
Kalynzoo Productions
Woodworking
Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
Kalynzoo Productions
Woodworking
Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
Why not use pocket screws?
If you're going to saw off the ends anyway when you're done, why not simply use pocket screws at the ends rather than CA? Once the screws are in place, the pieces are clamped and there should be no concern about it staying together until the Titebond or whatever sets up. If you're cheap you could even reuse the pocket screws.
- mickyd
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Can't argue with the logic here.alfabob wrote:If you're going to saw off the ends anyway when you're done, why not simply use pocket screws at the ends rather than CA? Once the screws are in place, the pieces are clamped and there should be no concern about it staying together until the Titebond or whatever sets up. If you're cheap you could even reuse the pocket screws.
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
What a great idea. That's what I like about this forum. And yes, I'm cheap, and have a whole can of screws I can reuse.alfabob wrote:If you're going to saw off the ends anyway when you're done, why not simply use pocket screws at the ends rather than CA? Once the screws are in place, the pieces are clamped and there should be no concern about it staying together until the Titebond or whatever sets up. If you're cheap you could even reuse the pocket screws.
Gary Kalyn
Kalynzoo Productions
Woodworking
Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
Kalynzoo Productions
Woodworking
Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
If you only clamp, glue, screw or whatever the ends of the boards, there is no pressure exerted in the middle of the boards, and therefore it would be like simply pressing two boards together with glue between them and setting them down to dry. It is the combination of the glue and the pressure from the clamps that makes a strong joint. If you wanted to use pocket screws along the length of the joint (not just at the two ends) you would get a strong joint. After it dries, you could remove the screws. Titebond's phone number is 1-800-347-4583; give them a call about gluing without clamping the boards together and get some expert advise.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
- mickyd
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OK.....here's Titebond tech specialists take in this clampless joining method. I emailed them yesterday. I know it may be foreign thinking for all us clamp guys here but maybe it it has merit.
Titebond Technical Specialist wrote:
Dear Michael,
This is an interesting application and it certainly appears feasible.
From a standpoint of theory freshly jointed boards may require very
little pressure to achieve fine glue lines. Another point of interest
is that the CA will not cause localized swelling while the water based
adhesive will, thus forcing the joint into further compression.
If I planned to use this technique I would consider ripping the boards a
bit longer to remove the section held together with CA once the adhesive
has dried. Otherwise my concern would be the likelihood of a gap
between the water based wood glue and CA eventually opening up.
Feel free to contact me if I can be of any further assistance.
Hugh D. Evans
Technical Specialist
Franklin International
2020 Bruck St
Columbus, OH 43207
614.445.1343 Direct
614.445.1295 Fax
HughDEvans@FranklinInternational.com
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
That certainly is from someone who should know, but it does fly in the face of instructions on the Titebond label to use clamps and what has historically been the method for getting a strong joint. I do note that he says "appears feasible," so it isn't like he's tested this method. I think I'll stick with the clamps and know that I'm getting a strong joint, rather than guessing at the results, regardless of who finds the method theoretically possible. Perhaps one of these days I'll try this method and see if the joint survives the drop test.
Art in Western Pennsylvania