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Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 4:01 pm
by foxtrapper
If I'm going to glue with a CA glue, I'd be far more likely to simply do the whole joint with it. Otherwise, I'd rather just leave it in the clamp. I like the fine tweaking of pressure I can do with the clamps.
Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 5:55 pm
by JPG
I have my doubts about this! I have not had much luck with CA and wood when pressure need be tolerated. The glueing of the ends does little to apply pressure to the center.
I'll be stubborn and stick with clamps. I do not even think much of gorilla glue. I stick(pun intended) with titebond or casein glues.
Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 12:19 am
by kalynzoo
I don't like CA or any fast set glue for intrasia. Often, even after careful dry fitting, I will glue a piece to find that I am not completely satisfied with the total presentation (fit, height, color, grain, etc.). With Titebond II I can pull the piece away, clean the area with water, make changes and try again.
Why not use pocket screws?
Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 6:55 am
by alfabob
If you're going to saw off the ends anyway when you're done, why not simply use pocket screws at the ends rather than CA? Once the screws are in place, the pieces are clamped and there should be no concern about it staying together until the Titebond or whatever sets up. If you're cheap you could even reuse the pocket screws.
Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 11:23 am
by mickyd
alfabob wrote:If you're going to saw off the ends anyway when you're done, why not simply use pocket screws at the ends rather than CA? Once the screws are in place, the pieces are clamped and there should be no concern about it staying together until the Titebond or whatever sets up. If you're cheap you could even reuse the pocket screws.
Can't argue with the logic here.
Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 12:56 pm
by kalynzoo
alfabob wrote:If you're going to saw off the ends anyway when you're done, why not simply use pocket screws at the ends rather than CA? Once the screws are in place, the pieces are clamped and there should be no concern about it staying together until the Titebond or whatever sets up. If you're cheap you could even reuse the pocket screws.
What a great idea. That's what I like about this forum. And yes, I'm cheap, and have a whole can of screws I can reuse.
Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 1:08 pm
by pennview
If you only clamp, glue, screw or whatever the ends of the boards, there is no pressure exerted in the middle of the boards, and therefore it would be like simply pressing two boards together with glue between them and setting them down to dry. It is the combination of the glue and the pressure from the clamps that makes a strong joint. If you wanted to use pocket screws along the length of the joint (not just at the two ends) you would get a strong joint. After it dries, you could remove the screws. Titebond's phone number is 1-800-347-4583; give them a call about gluing without clamping the boards together and get some expert advise.
Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 1:39 pm
by mickyd
OK.....here's Titebond tech specialists take in this clampless joining method. I emailed them yesterday. I know it may be foreign thinking for all us clamp guys here but maybe it it has merit.
Titebond Technical Specialist wrote:
Dear Michael,
This is an interesting application and it certainly appears feasible.
From a standpoint of theory freshly jointed boards may require very
little pressure to achieve fine glue lines. Another point of interest
is that the CA will not cause localized swelling while the water based
adhesive will, thus forcing the joint into further compression.
If I planned to use this technique I would consider ripping the boards a
bit longer to remove the section held together with CA once the adhesive
has dried. Otherwise my concern would be the likelihood of a gap
between the water based wood glue and CA eventually opening up.
Feel free to contact me if I can be of any further assistance.
Hugh D. Evans
Technical Specialist
Franklin International
2020 Bruck St
Columbus, OH 43207
614.445.1343 Direct
614.445.1295 Fax
HughDEvans@FranklinInternational.com
Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:55 am
by pennview
That certainly is from someone who should know, but it does fly in the face of instructions on the Titebond label to use clamps and what has historically been the method for getting a strong joint. I do note that he says "appears feasible," so it isn't like he's tested this method. I think I'll stick with the clamps and know that I'm getting a strong joint, rather than guessing at the results, regardless of who finds the method theoretically possible. Perhaps one of these days I'll try this method and see if the joint survives the drop test.
Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 1:42 pm
by charlese
pennview wrote:...I think I'll stick with the clamps and know that I'm getting a strong joint, rather than guessing at the results, regardless of who finds the method theoretically possible. ...
Good decision, Art!