Shopsmith Forums

8iowa wrote:Anymore, I can't find any 2 x 4s that are suitable for "furniture" type projects. I search and search thru stacks and it's almost a "give it up" exercise. If you can find straight & non-twisted boards, you still need to give them a lot of time to dry in your shop, maybe even months.

My next project is a workbench for my Gainesville shop. I have some kiln dryed 8/4 yellow pine boards and I am going to make my own 2 x4s.

Make your own 2x4s. Sounds like the only way to go anymore. If I can find any 8/4 boards that aren't poisoned I'll buy some for whatever projects down the road.

"dry in the shop"? A quarter mile as the crow flies from the Pacific?
Tell ya what, if any of your K-dry boards gets too dry, send 'em here and I'll let 'em sit in my garage for a week or so, re-hydrate the buggers.

;-)

Truth be told - dimensional softwoods (2 bys) can be surfaced in either green or dry condition. The standards for surfacing green dimension stock are almost all 1/16" wider than dry. They are supposed to lose 1/16" when they dry down to 15% moisture content.

Dimension stock is wetter than lumber. Can you remember driving a nail through a new 2X4? Can you remember driving a nail through the same type board after it has been in use for a couple years? Yes, The green new stuff is a lot easier to nail (put on fasteners).

Back in the day - so they say - I can remember buying 2X4s that were actually 2X4! They were also rough sawn.

I used to have a small farm outside of Nashville, and the well house and structure of the main house was oak. After a few years you could not pound a nail even with a sledge hammer into those suckers. Pre-drilled was the only way to get it started, and if not deep enough, you'd have a hook.

There is a lumber yard there somewhere. I think I know that because Norm took us there on a "This Old House" series.

dusty wrote:There is a lumber yard there somewhere. I think I know that because Norm took us there on a "This Old House" series.

As I recall he also did a price comparison between prices there on the island and here that left me in shock for about three days...
That was OK. I had already decided that I would not retire there. Too much family here.
.
When my son built a 26' X 32' addition on the back of his house a couple of years ago he went to Lowes and bought two full pallets of "premium" studs. While few were "perfect" I was really impressed at how good in general that batch of wood was. There was not a total reject in the bunch. A few had a little twist but in house construction you have plenty of places where short pieces are required and you can use those up for that.

dusty wrote:There is a lumber yard there somewhere. I think I know that because Norm took us there on a "This Old House" series.

Ah, so, I remember that series. Old house renov in Aina Haina or Wailupe if'n I remember correctly. I don't remember the trip to the lumber yard, but considering how long ago that show was I'd guess it was Mid-Pac, which has since gone away, I'm pretty sure.
And now I just keep gettin more and more curious. Mid-Pac wasn't where it used to be, I know, but maybe they sprang up somewhere else. I'll hafta go look.
Thanks for the reminder.

robinson46176 wrote:... to Lowes and bought two full pallets of "premium" studs. While few were "perfect" I was really impressed at how good in general that batch of wood was. There was not a total reject in the bunch. A few had a little twist but in house construction you have plenty of places where short pieces are required and you can use those up for that.

I'll second that, on Lowes. I found 14 or 15 studs in the pile and they are all better than almost any studs I've seen in an actual building. I took very little off of the ones I've trimmed, and some of that was to get rid of the rounded edges.
$3.49 apiece (8').
A little easier to take than the $20 for one 3/4x6/8' poplar board which looks to be about 90% usable as is, for drawer stuff.

FWIW, a few decades ago dimension 2x4's were 1 5/8 x 3 5/8(nominal dry dimension).

This was changed to 1 1/2 x 3 1/2. A corresponding change was made to other sizes as well.

I purchased several 'saw horse kits' that were designed around the older larger size 2x4. By the time I got around to actually using them the sizes had changed. I had to add 1/8" masonite shims to get them to be ridgid.

About 40 yrs ago!

JPG40504 wrote:FWIW, a few decades ago dimension 2x4's were 1 5/8 x 3 5/8(nominal dry dimension)....

"nominal dry dimension"-- good term]apparently[/I] showed-- pieces laminated or joined so as to present a smooth collective surface. I worried that if I squared up my stuff the product would come out looking like it got caught in the rain halfway thru.
In other words, would the overall finish dimensions suffer from components being size-challenged width-wise (girth dearth)?
I.e. should I assume that 2x4, aka 1-1/2x3-1/2 NDD, in the truck is equal to 1-3/8x3-3/8 when first tastes glue?

Further complicating things is another mistake I've made-- I took a closer look at the plans. The original picture is not crystal clear. Worse, the rounded edges are shown, but not (Holy Magnifying Glass, Batman!) in every case!

I just noticed this. It may be moot, I dunno, but now I have to go thru each drawing and see what's the story.

dang.

The rounded edges are used on 2x4 destined to be used as STUDs which is usually what large lumber yards and big box stores sell them for.

However you can buy square edged 2x4's. Most lumber yards will supply them if requested. Most 2x4 sold as studs again with rounded edges will be 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 inches.

However lumber yard 2x4's square corners will be 1 3/4 x 3 3/4 if you ask for hardwood sized.

If you want to pay the money you can get square corner 2x4 inch 2x4's also.

Don't expect to buy hard wood dimensioned square corner 2x4 for stud quality 2x4 prices.