Shopsmith Forums

You guys represent a wealth of knowledge, and I thank you.
As for exothermic reactions, a house up the street was destroyed by fire when the remodeling crew used lacquer on the woodwork and left material unattended over night. Big oops.
CA's vapor qualities have been well documented by CSI on TV, naturally this is a great source of information.
But truly, I have been using a shellac and wax finish on my pens, and I love the natural look and feel, but I wanted to try a CA finish on a shaving brush which will get wet, and on pens that might see a work environment.
Thank you for your detailed information.

I just posted a couple of pix of some American Eagle Pens I made for a friend whose son and grandson are both Eagle Scouts. I finished both with CA glue followed by HUT wax and buffing.
Bill V.

kalynzoo wrote:As for exothermic reactions, a house up the street was destroyed by fire when the remodeling crew used lacquer on the woodwork and left material unattended over night. Big oops.

Job security?

I finished one pen with nothing more than shellawax. I don't even know what wood species it is, but it's very dense. Anyway, that's my favorite finished pen because it feels almost satiny. The CA finish that I've used on the rest of the wood pens feels good too, just not as warm and natural. They do shine though. You're right to want to use the CA for heavy use or wet use items. I think they will be better protected.

dasgud wrote:Job security?

I finished one pen with nothing more than shellawax. I don't even know what wood species it is, but it's very dense. Anyway, that's my favorite finished pen because it feels almost satiny. The CA finish that I've used on the rest of the wood pens feels good too, just not as warm and natural. They do shine though. You're right to want to use the CA for heavy use or wet use items. I think they will be better protected.

Keep em away from Acetone/nail polish remover!:eek:

Hello, Kalynzoo,

I've been using the CA finish for quite a while (basically since I learned it), but my production rate is very limited (about 1/2 dozen pens a year as presents).

I'd like to point you to Russ Fairfield's web site. Russ passed away recently, but I learned a whole bunch of things from his writings:
http://www.woodturnerruss.com/ and
http://www.woodturnerruss.com/PenPages- ... Aglue.html

I also recommend checking out the penturners' site if you haven't already found it (http://www.penturners.org)

My method is similar to the one described where you use a folded up paper towel (Viva, I think), and clean/lubricate with a small drop of boiled linseed oil (BLO). Then, using the other end of the folded up paper towel, you drip the CA glue and rub it on the pen. Allow the CA to cure up (a lamp w/ 60W light bulb nearby helps), then, repeat BLO/CA. Wear a nitrile glove on the hand that's holding the paper towel. Be sure to have a bottle of CA remover handy, unless you want the "American Pie CA finish"! (Don't ask me how I know). Remember to also wear proper eye protection (I prefer a face shield).

As the other posters have said, be sure you have a container for disposing your used papertowels afterwards. The CA can run away on you and get quite hot. The BLO can and will polymerize and heat up on you, but you're only using one drop pretty much for the whole 5-6 layers of BLO/CA.

I typically sand to 400, then, clean meticulously, then, depending on the wood, use either sanding sealer, or start the BLO/CA process. I've recently taken to stopping the lathe between BLO/CA layers (or every other layer), loosening the mandrel nut and loosening the bushings, then, retightening. This is to prevent getting your bushings stuck to your pens! (I also put a bit of paste wax on the bushings and buff off before inserting in the pens).

After 5-6 layers of thin CA, I feel that I have a durable finish, but not so much that the pen looks plasticky. I then start micromesh sanding. I think I start around 3200, and continue all the way to 12000. I then rub on a tiny bit of paste wax, crank the lathe to high speed, and buff with some T-shirt material.

I've been told (and observed) that CA is not a great finish on open-pored woods like Oak, unless you have a ton of patience. But I've used it successfully on box elder, purpleheart, leopardwood, kingwood, maple, and walnut.

Regards,

hdt

derekdarling wrote:OK, This is serious, feel free to ask how I know. I don't know if people can spontaneously combust, but there have been reports. I DO KNOW, however, that boiled linseed oil on any kind of cellular material (paper, cloth) will BREAK OUT INTO FLAMES IF NOT DISPOSED OF in water.

While I don't mind being at the front of the line with a witticism, this is serious. People have died in fires set by improper disposal of this stuff.

It gives a great surface, but proper disposal is vital. This is a hazardous material if left with free access to oxygen.

OK, rant over. Back to creating sawdust all.

I am always careful with the disposal of the paper towels, HD shop towels, used to apply finish.

hdtran wrote:Hello, Kalynzoo,


After 5-6 layers of thin CA, I feel that I have a durable finish, but not so much that the pen looks plasticky. I then start micromesh sanding. I think I start around 3200, and continue all the way to 12000. I then rub on a tiny bit of paste wax, crank the lathe to high speed, and buff with some T-shirt material.


hdt

Do you think using Renaisance Wax instead of paste wax is overkill? I apply it with the same type of blue paper shop towel from HD, using a clean portion to buff the wax off.

cdmclain wrote:Do you think using Renaisance Wax instead of paste wax is overkill? I apply it with the same type of blue paper shop towel from HD, using a clean portion to buff the wax off.

If I had Renaissance Wax, I'd use it. When I got my Shopsmith (used, about 10 yrs ago), I bought a jar of Carnauba wax (what I call paste wax) at either Lowe's or Home Depot to wax my tubes. I still use it to wax my tubes, but also use it to do the final wax on my pens. I use a T-shirt cloth. I think a soft cloth is important for the wax, because you want to apply enough pressure at high speed to melt the wax into the finish, but you don't want debris in the cloth to scratch the finish.

hdt