Shopsmith Forums

Another method for drilling the shelf pin holes is to use a plunge router and 3/4" template guide (or another sized template guide). Simply drill a series of 3/4" holes in a piece of wood, plywood, or MDF, centering them as you like, clamp it to your project, then mount the template guide in the base of the router, install the appropriate sized bit, set the plunge depth, and "drill" the holes.

Lee Valley also has a nice guide for drilling the holes.

I'm old school on this. The jigs just never seem to have the spacing I want.

I use masking tape centered approximately the distance from each edge I want the holes. Then I draw a line exactly the distance from the edge on the tape where you want the pins. Next mark intersections at the distance between the shelf pins you desire and finally make the holes. Hole making method is entirely your option. I have used a hand drill either power or the old crank the handle kind with the gears (I love that old drill, It's even cordless), a drill press which can be awkward depending on the size of the piece being drilled, router with correct bit size, etc. When you're done peel off the tape and all the markings are gone like you were never there. The tape method also helps to cut down on the tear out on certain materials like Formica or laminates.

Terry

SDSSmith wrote:In the past I have set up the fence as you have described for desired distance in from the edge. I then mark the first few holes and the last hole. I drill the first hole and insert a drill bit or pin the size of the hole. I then line up the next hole. Once that is lined up, I move a stop block up along side of the drill bit/pin in the first hole and set it. I drill the second hole, remove the pin from the first and insert it into the second and then slide the board over until the pin is just against the stop block. Repeat the procedure until you drilled the last hole.

Brilliant! That'll work!!!! Thanks!

Ok I have drilled a ton of these. Most here know that I have a dedicated line boring Blum machine. There are times however when it is just eaiser to drill them by hand. I always drill after the cabinet is assembled but before I nail the back on. This way you have a stop on the bottom and can use the front and back of the cabinet as alignment points. I use a simple 1/4 inch template clamped into place and a 5mm bit with a dept stop in a hand held cordless drill. The template has a single row of holes and I move it into place for each line of holes each thus all holes are drilled in the same location even if the template is not perfect. Always mark the bottom of the jig so that you do not accidentally turn it upside down. Waiting until the cabinet is together allows you to drill at a 90 degree angle and it is easier to keep the drill straight and to see what you are doing.

I have done this many times and I usually do it the way 8iowa does. However almost every time I have had a problem. Either the drill bit got lose and dropped down slightly or the depth stop slipped or the headstock itself slide down but usually before I finish drilling all my holes I have them going deeper and deeper.

So lately I have been doing holes like this with the SS in horizontal mode. Using the fence (with a aux fence face just in case ) as my backup. I double check my headstock lock, my table lock and my drill chuck, plus I put a piece of tape around the drill bit. Because I'm in horizontal mode the saw dust from drilling drops away and my tape stays in perfect shape so if anything changes I know instantly. Yes I have had the tape slip too And even with all these precautions things do change after about 100 holes or so, so I recheck my depth every 50 holes or so.

I don't know but maybe I'm the a bad luck kid when it comes to drilling holes using the SS and it's depth stop.