Cabinet Construction - Outfeed Table

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eagleta2
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Post by eagleta2 »

Hi Heath,

I just finished my under ss cabinet...and I thought I'd share some notes to try and save you from some of the trials and tribulations that I went thru.

First...face frames and drawer slides will seriously reduce drawer capacity...which is why my fence didn't fit in my drawer. If I were doin it again I would make the face frame much narrower, since most of it will be covered by the overhang of the drawer fronts or doors.

Regarding the face frame...invest in a pocket hole jig if you don't already have one. Youll be glad you did..the face frame assembly will be much easier.

I hope this helps....
Geo
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

Ok, so here is my revised Sketchup plans. Feedback is appreciated.

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Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

Image

Image
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

Now that I really look at that and imagine trying to move it, I'm not sure my "4 casters and 2 legs" idea is going to work out like I had thought. I think I should rethink my previous thinking and think up another revision. 6 casters? 2 casters and 4 legs on the floor? Cantilever the outfeed table instead of that set of legs?
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Add 2 movable(up/down) casters to the rear legs. That arrangement does not allow separating the two 'halves' for moving.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

Sitting here looking at your sketches it occurs to me that with maybe some dimension adjustments and an out-feed table top that can adjust up and down that it would be fine for parking a Shopsmith over it. :)


.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

I know we had talked about half lap joints, and I didn't really incorporate any. Is that an effective joint for a corner where the ends of three different boards come together to form a corner?
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

You added casters to the drawings (neat and a subject for another thread) but you did not alter any of the other vertical dimensions. That doesn't feel like it will work out in the long run. In the end - the height off the floor must be the same for the outfeed table top and the top of the cabinet saw bed.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

heathicus wrote:I know we had talked about half lap joints, and I didn't really incorporate any. Is that an effective joint for a corner where the ends of three different boards come together to form a corner?
In your case, I would half lap the side rails to the outside of the legs and the same on the front, then run lag bolts(2) through the side rails, through the legs and into the center of the front rails. Assuming the legs are wide face sideways, that gives you longer shoulders(3 1/2") for the rail in the front to rear direction and still allows some shoulder surface for the front(3/4".)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
pennview
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Post by pennview »

Yes, for example, you could half lap the vertical and horizontal pieces of 2x4 that form the sides of the outfeed unit, and then cut a notch so that the third piece (the front horizontal part of the unit) can be tied in. Glue and screws will make it quite solid. And, those half laps and notches will keep everything from racking.

Personally, I wouldn't use a Kreg jig to assemble something like this, because I don't think butt joints held together with screws would be strong enough, and any glue used on a butt joint contributes about zero stength to the joint. But then again I don't own a Kreg jig, so you can take that view for what it's worth.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
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