Shopsmith Forums

dusty wrote:
It all depends on what the objectives were when the trip began.

I would like to get to that point when I can cut a board to 3 1/32" wide without having to trim it down. It is not that a single swipe with a block plane is all that difficult or time consuming. It is the fact that I had to make that swipe at all. If the cut was 1/32" the other way, the result is a piece that is 1/32" too small. I can't correct that with a single swipe. Now I need to use a shim or live with it.

Neither is a big deal but .....

The objective is to get to that point where a cut can be made right the first time]no corrective action required[/B]".

Remember, the errors that are being discussed here don't always happen in 1/32" increments. At least mine don't.

BTW My shop is too close much to house to be a hide out from anyone but especially the Mrs. You may not understand that. You have out buildings to hide in.

Okay I think I now understand what I should be seeing. I think Dusty is saying his cut is off slightly. I really believe that can one of two things.
On not using the same blade tooth to measure from the fence or using different rules to set up the cut.

We all know the blades have some run out. Add that runout to our accuracy when setting and adjusting the fence and you can have a 1/32 error pretty easy.

That is why I always make a test cut. Once it is exactly my desired width then I make the cut. However I rarely have to do this is I usually run the wood through the jointer or don't have to be that precise.

If the cut itself varies then I think you have one of two problems. You are feeding the wood wrong or you are not holding the wood against the fence.

I don't know about you guys but to me this all boils down to setup and alignment. We all know the ss will cut straight and true with precision...but only after it has been aligned to do so.

I tend to be a bit obsessive/compulsive when it comes to alignment, and to be honest it is probably to a detriment. I often spend more time tweaking,adjusting, and worrying than I spend creating.

Before I started using a dial gauge to do my alignments in used a starret .001 feeler gauge between the end of the Allen wrench and the blade or fence. This allowed me to know without any doubt that I was truly aligned. I will openly admit that my 500 was aligned spot on to +/- .001 but my 510 is much more difficult to get this close.

At the end of the day, I'm the type of guy that needs to know I am cutting dead straight and square.

I didn't invest the time to do Dusty's experiment (yet) but when I do, I have no doubt that the insert will fit tightly...because my equipment is well aligned.

Just my $.02...sorry about rambling on.

Geo

I think it would be interesting to see a comparison of the uniformity of any rip cut by a SS and a full blown table saw like PM2000 or Unisaw. Using dial calipers for measurement of the cut of course. Would just like to know!

Can the SS can be aligned and setup to cut as true and precise as a high end tablesaw, using the same blade, featherboards, sled? If there is a difference, what could it possibly be .... table flatness? vibration? Has anybody here experienced both saws?

OK....I've been looking at table saws......

pieceseeker wrote:I think it would be interesting to see a comparison of the uniformity of any rip cut by a SS and a full blown table saw like PM2000 or Unisaw. Using dial calipers for measurement of the cut of course. Would just like to know!

In my opinion, some terminology is in order. The Shopsmith is a "full blown" table saw. It is not a dedicated table saw.

More opinion please!

pieceseeker wrote:More opinion please!

Ok, are you really awaiting purchase of this entire list? Waiting to purchase a new PowerPro ShopSmith, 12" DeWalt sliding compound mitre saw, 10" Delta tabletop saw, Bosch router and jig saw, Makita circular saw, Graco V-COMP HVLP. Sorry no disrespect intended. It must be the drugs I quit taking this AM.Jim:):p:D

Maybe I need to edit my list. I've had all the rest for several years, just waiting on the PP

pieceseeker wrote:Maybe I need to edit my list. I've had all the rest for several years, just waiting on the PP

Hope that's understood a little better!:)

pieceseeker wrote:Hope that's understood a little better!:)

Sorry for the bad time. I suspected that to be the case. Why not just buy it and gloat. Jim

Taking my time, have to convert a screened in porch 12x12 into an enclosed shop area. That's more for security of the equipment than for weather concerns. I am also waiting to actually see a SS demo, if one ever comes around to Atlanta again. I want to see a pro using it.

I've been reading and watching all the info I can get a hold of on the SS. My personal short experience with a SS is my dad owned one for a little while. He didn't like it, but I think he may not have had the patience to set one up properly or to do the accessory change overs. I know that he didn't own a dial indicator or calipers. His projects he built were.....lets just say not up to par.

The whole reason I jumped into this thread is because I have just a little bit of reservations yet on the accuracy of the SS. I have never used one, so I don't know what I'm talking about, I'm relying on you guys to convince me! I guess I'm sorta looking for reasonable comparisons to dedicated table saws like a PM or Uni. I aspire to build fine furniture some day. Not a lot of furniture, but what I do build, I want to build right. I want joints and tops to be precise, square, flat and strong.

I do have a lot of patience and I like a job well done. I always say any professional looking job is all in the details.