Shopsmith Forums

I had the same problem but it wasn't the chuck it was the sanding disk.

Anyway since this forum helped me get some ideas and comes up on all my searches for this problem I thought I'd share my eventual solution.

I applied some penetrating oil and then used a 'tie rod fork' and a 'dead blow hammer' and it popped right off. Here are examples of the products I used to solve this issue. I got mine used from a local used tool shop.

http://www.harborfreight.com/16-inch-ti ... -1759.html

Good luck to anyone who has this annoying issue in the future.

I realize you got the chuck off already but I have another rust removal suggestion that works quite well. I learned this from an old auto mechanic years ago when I asked him what they used before penetrating oil. He said he still used ammonia as long as the area was dry and not contaminated with other oils. There is a chemical reaction with the rust that frees the part. It takes a little time and several applications but you don't have the oily spray and the parts generally move freely. I didn't believe it till I tried it once.

fordtrax wrote:I WD40ed and LiquidWrenched in the allen keyhole. After about an hour it slowly moved and then pulled off. The pix helped since I did not know what was under it. Looks like a Jacobs 33b chuck or or something like that may made in Conn.?

FYI, for those that said the chuck has no adapter that is not true. The 10E's came originally with a Jacobs 33B chuck. It had a 5/8-16 thread attachment. There was an adapter to adapt it to the SS 5/8 smooth shaft with a set screw. I am not sure when Magna changed over but somewhere along the line they got Jacobs to make the 3326 which just had the smooth 5/8 bore and set screw. No need for an adapter. And of course it has been the same ever since.

fordtrax wrote:On my "new" 10e I loosened up the allen screw on the adaptor above the drill chuck and tried to get it to slide off the shaft - taking the drill chuck with it. I even tapped it lightly with a hammer. Nothing. Am I missing something that is holding the adaptor/chuck in place? Any suggestions of how to get it off?

Also, how is the drill chuck held in place on the adaptor - is that just a press fit or is there some allen screw or key that holds the drill chuck to the adaptor?

Thanks

I had a pulley that was sealed on one end similar to your drill chuck that had rusted for years and seized to a motor shaft. I tried everything I knew PB etc. then something in my mind clicked as I looked at the threaded hole.

I put a grease zerk in the hole my locking screw had come out of and used my grease gun to force grease under pressure in the hole. I waited an hour or more before I saw anything come out the shaft opening. I put in more grease and then was able to remove it with a gear puller that hadn't made a dent when I had tried it without the grease.
File that one away for a similar situation you may encounter in the future. Hopefully it will help.

I don't know if it was solely the grease or the fact that the hydraulic pressure of the grease pushed the PB further into the rust, but it worked where it had not before.

Everett

John, I've had a 10E and a 10E, model R-24996, and have not seen that drill chuck.

Sounds like ONE MORE item to put on my "collection" list. All the ones I have seen,
are the standard looking Jacobs "Shopsmith" chuck.

steve

skou wrote:John, I've had a 10E and a 10E, model R-24996, and have not seen that drill chuck.

Sounds like ONE MORE item to put on my "collection" list. All the ones I have seen,
are the standard looking Jacobs "Shopsmith" chuck.

steve

I got that one on eBay a year or so ago. It is the only one I have ever seen. It could be that only the very first 10E's came with that chuck. My guess is that Magna bought the chuck (33B) from Jacobs and made the adapter themselves. Then when sales took off they got Jacobs to make the 3326 with the smooth 5/8" bore. Jacobs still makes the 33B in 3/8-24, 1/2-20 and 5/8-16 threads. It is now Model 33BA.

If you are collecting, here is another one for you. I have an extension table with a cast iron top. It is only about half as wide as the aluminum table. I will take a picture of it today and start another thread. I got it on eBay 2 or 3 years ago and it is the only one I have ever seen.

John, I've seen that extension table, but just in pictures.
Durable, but HEAVY!

It, like the chuck, is also in my "bucket" list. (May take
a while!)

I'm a collector, (ask my past roommates) but a poor one.

And, we're trashing this guy's thread. SORRY!

steve