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Re: Lathe / Face Plate Run out ...narrow vessel hallowing
Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2015 3:47 am
by JPG
Is it possible the spt clamp is not adjusted correctly on the right end. When the spt tubes are clamped, the 'fluted' handle should NOT touch the end casting on either end. The clamping is done with the screws that press against the spt mounting tubes. Both screws should bear against the spt tube, not the casting.
Re: Lathe / Face Plate Run out ...narrow vessel hallowing
Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2015 6:39 am
by algale
JPG wrote:Is it possible the spt clamp is not adjusted correctly on the right end. When the spt tubes are clamped, the 'fluted' handle should NOT touch the end casting on either end. The clamping is done with the screws that press against the spt mounting tubes. Both screws should bear against the spt tube, not the casting.
No, that's not the issue in my case; Ive got the SPT clamps properly adjusted on both ends. There is a noticeably tighter fit in the casting itself even with the clamps totally removed. Since I seldom used SPTs on the right side, and you don't use the lathe tailstock on the left side, I never would have noticed this had I not used the tail stock as a reference to help square the headrest. See third paragraph in this post.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 70#p124670
Re: Lathe / Face Plate Run out ...narrow vessel hallowing
Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 2:47 pm
by wa2crk
Can you try to rotate the mounting tubes so that they just barely rub the sides of the mounting holes? Then the tubes are against the outer walls ( away from the center line ) of the holes. This may cause more even pressure on both tubes and a more stable mount.
Bill V
Re: Lathe / Face Plate Run out ...narrow vessel hallowing
Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2015 10:00 am
by TomH
If you are going to do that kind of hollowing on a regular basis, it's worth the money to invest in the hollowing tools from Trent Bosch. Here is one link:
http://woodworld-of-texas.myshopify.com ... -super-set
The little scraper tip is fantastic, easy to control and makes a nice smooth cut. When you need to change it, you just heat up the end with a torch, and pull it out and super glue in a new one. The large, heavy handle gives you great control and cuts down on the catches ripping a normal handled tool out of your hands.
Once you've hollowed the majority of the material out with the Bosch tool, then take a well sharpened round nose scraper and take very very very very light cuts to smooth out the walls.
(Here is a better link to Trent Bosch tools:
http://www.trentbosch.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1_8)
I've use it on everything from walnut to hard maple and haven't had a bit of problem.