Shopsmith Forums

"I usually use a miter saw to make cuts on stock that size and then true them up on the SS sanding disc , , I went through too many advill doing it the other way.

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Hobbyman2"

Sounds like you might want to look over your process. Your post not mine.

Ed

reible wrote:"I usually use a miter saw to make cuts on stock that size and then true them up on the SS sanding disc , , I went through too many advill doing it the other way.

---
Hobbyman2"

Sounds like you might want to look over your process. Your post not mine.

Ed

+1

Since ya had so much fun with that one here is another one that might stir ya up


a perfect miter gage set up.


The miter gage works on both tables with no issues just like the table set up .

Other then it is the wrong miter gage for the 510 ,, the glides are wrong type , one sets in the grove.

The glide adjustment is not just for the rocking motion .

I'm not sure where this is going. I assumed this thread was referring to squaring a miter gauge to SQUARE TO BLADE AND MITER SLOT! Sorry for the cap lock, thought I was using my inside voice!

So if the miter gage isn't square to the table ,,,as well to the blade ,,,wont you end up with off square cuts,,,,, or compound miters if you set the gage to a angle and clamp the board to the gage?

My point was the gage has to be square in all directions .

Ah, ok... i see where you were going now.

Sorry for popping in and out , trying to get food ready ..

The miter gage will work on the 510 table,,,,, however it seem one of the glides rides more in the dust grove and the gage drops just a bit , not only that I fear the glide will wear faster and uneven not setting flat .

JPG wrote:

Hobbyman2 wrote:

reible wrote:The whole premise is fundamentally flawed. I will not comment farther because if you don't understand I sure the heck am not going to waste my time explaining why this is a bad idea.

I worked for 28 years designing and having equipment built to exacting standards. There are ways of doing thing and there are ways not to do them. I know the difference. This is a dead end street without a doubt.

Just read the manual and follow the instructions that shopsmith supplies and you will be fine.

Ed

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Well,,,, I have 2 tables ,,a 500 and a 510 ,,,,I can switch from one to the other with out issues using the same miter gage now that they are set up using this method,

I think I will do what works for me .

Do let us know how well the 5 cut test comes out.

BTW there should not be any problem getting two miter gauges set reasonably the same regardless of the method used or the accuracy actually attained.

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I can do 100 cuts and they will all be perfect .

Hobbyman2 wrote:So if the miter gage isn't square to the table ,,,as well to the blade ,,,wont you end up with off square cuts,,,,, or compound miters if you set the gage to a angle and clamp the board to the gage?

My point was the gage has to be square in all directions .

The edge of the table is not a reference surface for any operation. The miter bar slots are the reference surface and it does not matter if they are parallel to the sides of the table or perpendicular to the front and back of the table.

Two things are necessary for perfect cuts. First, both miter slots must be parallel to each other. They are the reference surface for aligning the table. The miter slots must be parallel to the blade. I could care less where the edges of the table are in reference to the blade. Second, the face of the miter gauge must be horizontally square to the miter bar to get a 90° cut. The end of the miter gauge does not need to be vertically perpendicular to the table. It is not a reference surface and has no bearing on anything. Besides it is not a machined surface. Likewise, the face of the miter gauge does not have to be perfectly vertical to the table. The stock will still touch the fence all the way across.

I think this is a summation of what everyone else has said. Please correct me(and I know you will )if I misstated something.