Shopsmith Forums

pennview wrote:I understand that dry wall screws are brittle, but I've never had a dry wall screw break and I use them on most everything, and I predrill the pilot holes so there is no stress on the screw when assembling things. One exception for sure would be hanging kitchen cabinets on the wall or some similar use.

Typically though, glue is what holds my assemblies together and the screws are more or less merely the clamps that hold the parts together until the glue sets up.

I agree, I use "A LOT" of screws and also "A LOT" of glue on all sorts of things even repairs on barns.

Additionally there is a big difference in todays screws. I suppose that some places still carry those old cheap snappers but what I buy are labeled as "Drywall / Multipurpose Screws" and are nothing like those old cheap by the bucket drywall screws I used to buy years ago. About all I used those for was drywall or attaching plywood to something. I only pre-drill to avoid splitting or extremely hard stuff. In something like common construction lumber I just drive them on in using full driver torque. It's been years since I snapped a screw.


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heathicus wrote:I've never had one break, but every time I use one, I hear Mike Holmes chastising me. "You don't use drywall screws in wood!" I just hope he never inspects my shop!

There is a reason Mike Holmes says that.

I have broken more than my share of dry wall screws. Some batches I never break and then I will buy another box from the same manufacture and snap nearly every 10th one. They also vary manufacture to manufacture. I think a lot of manufacture has shifted to China. There is one brand that I have broken where the screw was less than 1" into the wood.

If you predrill the hole I doubt you will ever break one. However dry wall screws are made to be self drilling/self tapping if you will.

I now only use Highpoint or Mcfeely screws in wood.

I have dug my last broken dry wall screw out.

Who wants to bet I will probably snap another dry wall screw off because I was to busy/lazy to go get the proper screw.

Ed in Tampa wrote:There is a reason Mike Holmes says that.

I have broken more than my share of dry wall screws. Some batches I never break and then I will buy another box from the same manufacture and snap nearly every 10th one. They also vary manufacture to manufacture. I think a lot of manufacture has shifted to China. There is one brand that I have broken where the screw was less than 1" into the wood.

If you predrill the hole I doubt you will ever break one. However dry wall screws are made to be self drilling/self tapping if you will.

I now only use Highpoint or Mcfeely screws in wood.

I have dug my last broken dry wall screw out.

Who wants to bet I will probably snap another dry wall screw off because I was to busy/lazy to go get the proper screw.

Not just to China. Much of the hardware that we purchase these days comes from "off shore" locations all over the world.

You cannot avoid this even buying from known named distributors. It has become the way of the times. Thank our political leaders.

dusty wrote:Not just to China. Much of the hardware that we purchase these days comes from "off shore" locations all over the world.

You cannot avoid this even buying from known named distributors. It has become the way of the times. Thank our political leaders.

Where were you when the 'hope' merchant gave the SOU?

"That stuff is 'coming' back".

Just think, we will then get bacon, ham, or sausage with a butterfly net!:D

heathicus wrote:

Hi Heath, I would like to know what software you are using
Thanks:Cliff

I guess it's Google's SketchUp.
You can dowload it from Google and it is free.

Any reason a lag screw couldn't be used for a leg leveler? Pre-drill, of course, then screw it into the bottom of the leg. Adjust the depth of the screw to adjust the height of the leg.

I have an idea of how to do dust collection for the table saw, but I haven't put anything into Sketchup yet.

I've got my parts list made out for both the saw cabinet/outfeed table AND for a Norm Abram "New Yankee Workshop" type workbench (sans vice hardware). Still trying to talk SWMBO/LOML into letting go of the money...

A lag bolt would be a budget solution, but i question the durability and the whether they would 'drift'.

I think a bottom plate on the leg with a tapped hole that a caster threaded stem mates to and a jam nut would be preferable. If not a caster, then a cap screw. The plates are available, or you could make them from scratch.

After sleeping on it, I decided I should go back to the drawing board, and scale this back a little bit. Make it a little less expensive and a little more simple.

I don't have any more 2x lumber that my dad gave me to build my shop, but I have plenty of 1x lumber. So instead of buying new 2x4s, couldn't I use my stock of 1x4's?? Then all I would need to buy is the sheet goods.

So, here's what I came up with.







Instead of drawers under the saw cabinet, just one open area for storage of small cutoffs.

Any obvious problems with this?

heathicus wrote:After sleeping on it, I decided I should go back to the drawing board, and scale this back a little bit. Make it a little less expensive and a little more simple.

I don't have any more 2x lumber that my dad gave me to build my shop, but I have plenty of 1x lumber. So instead of buying new 2x4s, couldn't I use my stock of 1x4's?? Then all I would need to buy is the sheet goods.

So, here's what I came up with.







Instead of drawers under the saw cabinet, just one open area for storage of small cutoffs.

Any obvious problems with this?

What are going to do with all of the stuff that was going to be in those drawers?:rolleyes: