Rip fence and floating table

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garys
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Post by garys »

Unless you have something damaged, alignment should be easy. You simply align the extension table to fit exactly with the main saw table. Once that is done, the floating tables have no choice but to float straight between the two. If that isn't happening, it is time to carefully inspect all parts for damage.
Yes, the rip fence does absolutely fit straight across the floating tables on a 510 when aligned correctly.
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

JPG40504 wrote:Read and absorb this entire thread and those linked to from it. This discussion is not about lack of alignment, rather the inability to accomplish it.

JPG
I tend to agree with Garys I think there is a lack of basic alignment or a defective part.

With the fence rails mounted on main table, floating table and aux table. Sitting on a flat surface two straight edges should be able to be placed so it spans all three with consistent contact the full length of the each rail. (you will have to turn the tables upside down to do this since both the main and aux table have legs attached.)(use something other than the connecting tubes for the straight edge.)

If not the offending piece should be replaced. If there is straight edge consistency on all three table rails, then each table should be mounted and aligned upon the SS and again each table rail should perfectly align.

If that does not happen it is SS alignment not mis-manufactured tables. If the SS can't be aligned then there is a mis manufactured part in it.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

For anyone who is interested, the distance between the front and rear rails of a Mark V Model 520 is nominally 23 3/4".

This is my number (not Shopsmith's). Shopsmith does not specify this sort of measurement except for their own consumption.

The measurements on my Main Table (on my go to machine) actually measure 23 47/64". I propose that if Shopsmith was to specify this dimension it would be 23 3/4" +- 1/32".

[ATTACH]24108[/ATTACH]

Is this measurement critical? In my opinion, absolutely not. However, this measurement, taken at any number of locations along the entire length of the tubes should be the same. If not, I would suspect that the tubes are not parallel to one another and that alignment problems exist. Lack of parallelism could be caused by bent tubes or improperly installed rails or some sort of manufacturing deviation that effects rail positioning.

With the Main Table fully assembled and with extension tubes mounted in the front and rear rails and secured in place by the thump screws, floating tables should slide onto the extension tubes with only minimal (if any) difficulty. Floating tables should slide easily along the extension tubes. Binding indicates some sort of deviation (lack of parallelism) for expectations.

Added Comment: Yes, Wingman2010, you can mount the rip fence on a floating table and make totally successful rip cuts. I find it easier to do this using the Model 520 but it can be done just as accurately on the Model 510. Set up is a bit more demanding when using the 510. What you must guard against is having too much of the rip fence lock bars in the gap between table rails.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

As is usual with long meandering threads we get off on tangents and magically seem to arrive at conclusions or new posts that repeat what has already been revealed.

I do not disagree with what Garys posted(both of them), but rather that it was old news. This thread got off subject a bit (and referred) to an earlier thread that discussed this and the inability to achieve proper alignment until SS shimmed Algale's table(s).

In a perfect world with absolutes rather than close approximations (tolerances), such haughty this is the way it should be comments would be appropriate.

This is not a machine tool, this is a wood working tool and therefore greater manufacturing tolerances are to be expected. Unfortunately Algale got caught in a statistical anomaly(off on the side of the bell curve).

And no QA does not inspect every piece.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
packy
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SS V-500 Extension Tables.

Post by packy »

Hi Folks...
I have a SS V-500, I have been given two 4 1/2 in. wide extension tables, and one 7 1/2 in wide table. Is there any reason I can't add one extension to each side of my SS main table to give me a little more width, making sure to line them up to allow the fence to ride properly.

Thanks
Tim
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

packy wrote:Hi Folks...
I have a SS V-500, I have been given two 4 1/2 in. wide extension tables, and one 7 1/2 in wide table. Is there any reason I can't add one extension to each side of my SS main table to give me a little more width, making sure to line them up to allow the fence to ride properly.

Thanks
Tim
I think I would avoid mounting one on the left side of the main table. I know of at least one fellow who added one to the right side of his main table. Is the fence rail on your main table part of the casting or a bolted on extrusion?
Rob in San Diego
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packy
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Post by packy »

Hi Rob
Had to check.... bolted on extrusion.

Tim
P.S. Thanks for your reply.
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

SDSSmith wrote:I think I would avoid mounting one on the left side of the main table.

WHY wood ya avoid that? I use one on each end for long board support.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
packy
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Post by packy »

Say Rob and beeg.
Sorry I looked at my post again, as not to mislead, I was wanting to bolt the extensions onto the main table.
Thanks again Tim
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I believe the narrower ones have a cast in fence rail.

The wider one should indeed have the extruded rail.

The sides of these tables do not lend themselves to adjacent attachment(the sides (are not perpendicular to the top surface).

The cast rails on the narrower ones vary considerably"(not a problem until ya try to match an adjacent table).

Since you have 'narrow' extension tables, I assume a Mark 5 or a Mark V 500).

Realize increasing table width to the right may interfere with tilting.

Increasing table width to the left makes access to quill feed and power switch more difficult.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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