Shopsmith Forums

I don't think anyone else mentioned it, but it helped me a whole lot.

The first thing I did when I started rebuilding the headstock was to
tilt the shopsmith into drill press mode and remove the motor pan & motor. This gives you enough room to work and see what you are doing.

joshh wrote:I don't think anyone else mentioned it, but it helped me a whole lot.

The first thing I did when I started rebuilding the headstock was to
tilt the shopsmith into drill press mode and remove the motor pan & motor. This gives you enough room to work and see what you are doing.

I drop the motor pan and motor about every six months for a good cleaning and thorough inspection and lubrication.

I extended the wires from the switch to the motor so that I can switch the motor on/off if I need to.

I did this also because the wires are difficult for me to remove from and attach back to the switch. By extending them as I have, I can remove power from the Mark V without reaching up inside the headstock.

[ATTACH]20657[/ATTACH]

CAUTION: I just looked at this image and realized just how misleading it might be. The black and white wires that I used for the extension are both "hot". Notice that the white wire is attached to the blue motor wire. That is NOT the AC return wire!!!!

dusty wrote:I drop the motor pan and motor about every six months for a good cleaning and thorough inspection and lubrication.

I extended the wires from the switch to the motor so that I can switch the motor on/off if I need to.

Hmph! Interesting.

One thing that has not been mentioned is that by reversing the table when raised to vertical, the table can be positioned under the motor/pan to allow setting it down between removing the screws and the removing the wires.

Reversing means inserting the posts into the carriage from the bottom of the carriage.

JPG40504 wrote:One thing that has not been mentioned is that by reversing the table when raised to vertical, the table can be positioned under the motor/pan to allow setting it down between removing the screws and the removing the wires.

Reversing means inserting the posts into the carriage from the bottom of the carriage.

Thanks for pointing that out JPG.

Not sure yet if I’ll make the repairs with the headstock on the bars or on a bench, but this is a good option to keep in mind.

[quote="idcook"]Thanks for pointing that out JPG.

Not sure yet if I&#8217]
Not for me! I don't trust my table tilt lock with that much weight. I drop the motor pan and motor before I go vertical.

The table is stopped by the stop screws against the posts(unless ya get too far out from the pivots). The M5 table is smaller.

Since I have an "A" head stock with no access hole in the back, reversing the table and folding the motor pan and motor down onto the table is pretty much my only option for lubricating the control sheave.

If you go his route, do yourself a favor and put some card board or scrap plywood or something on the table to keep it from getting scratched and such.

terrydowning wrote:Since I have an "A" head stock with no access hole in the back, reversing the table and folding the motor pan and motor down onto the table is pretty much my only option for lubricating the control sheave.

If you go his route, do yourself a favor and put some card board or scrap plywood or something on the table to keep it from getting scratched and such.

The table ain’t none to pretty as it is now.

Along with this stock fix-up I’ve decided I might as well go all out and shiny up the works as well as I can.

Just letting you (or anyone else reading that may want to try this) know to be aware. The hard steel pan and screws on that soft aluminum table can lead to some gnarly scratches. DAMHIKT!